Country Guides: Bolivia

Bolivia

It's a word likely to make your parents more apprehensive than when you told them you were getting that Black Sabbath tattoo. Reputation aside, it is still one of the most beautiful and varied countries in the world, and should be considered a 'must see' on any tour of South America. A few tips and personal anecdotes should help you to avoid the worst, and savour the best, of this unique country.

La Paz, the capital city, is the highest capital in the world. This is certainly worth bearing in mind as a first pointer; the air is thin and the UV rays are very strong so sun cream is a must. It is not unusual to see many a backpacker roaming around town looking remarkably like Mick Hucknall after underestimating the Bolivian sun.

While many use the city as a 'base camp' for expeditions to other destinations in the country, this does not mean that it has nothing to offer. Numerous 'extreme' (and moreover cheap) activities can be sought, from kayaking down white water rapids to mountain biking.

You may scoff at classing mountain biking as 'extreme', images of spotty teenagers in lycra shorts do often spring to mind, but when you take into account the fact that this trip is down the world's most dangerous road, things suddenly become a little more interesting.

Certainly, hurtling down this mountain pass, with a sheer drop of 1000 meters on one side, having to dodge cars, busses, and still trying to control your bike elevates this to the 'extreme' classification. Of course, all such sports carry risks, shown by a plaque which commemorates an Israeli girl who fell to her death from the road, but don't let this put you off if you are up for some high speed action. All of the bikes are well maintained, and there are stops every couple of miles where the bikes are checked for any faults.

If you are looking for something a little less death defying, consider heading to Rurrenabaque, where you can head into the jungle on a canoe tour. A word of warning though; while at first it may seem clear that a bus is a good bet to get you to Rurrenabaque (certainly being far cheaper than the flight), after about 45 minutes you will turn onto the very same road down which out-of-control mountain bikers are swerving to avoid the erratic driving of locals.

Being on a bus is in a whole other league to the bikes. Looking out of the window, you can see down into the precarious ravine. Often there is no road at all between the wheels and the edge of the road. Throw in a meeting with two buses coming the other way and you have an interesting dice with death as the busses negotiate the road backwards. An extreme sport in itself!

After this adversity, you will be relieved to hear that it is easy to find accommodation on arrival (speak to any of the touts at the bus station), and that the jungle is well worth the risk. There are many tours to chose from, so take your time in deciding which one is best for you. Sleeping arrangements and whether your group would have an English speaking guide are good things to consider when choosing a tour operator. Piranha fishing, animal tracking and swimming with the pink dolphins and caymans are all activities on offer within these jungle tours, so choose the one which is best suited to your needs.

Accommodation is basic on these tours. Don't expect any running water, air conditioning, electricity or home comforts. It's a back to basics experience, but one which no Bolivian trip is complete without. Hearing a jaguar prowling around underneath your hut at 3 a.m. is an experience to remember.

For those of you who would rather not associate with oversized serpents, you may want to avoid the anaconda hunting that is part of some of the tours. Wading through swamps, feeling with your feet for the tell tale lump of the world's largest snake would be a nightmare to some, a dream for others.

To illustrate the point, Jose, our near toothless guide, found a snake so large that he couldn't wrap his arms around it. This didn't stop him bench pressing it over his head, whilst shouting "Can kill a man! Can kill a man!"

After all this, you may want to take in a bit of culture on your Bolivian experience. While there may not be anything as exciting as wresting anacondas in Sucre (an easy bus ride from La Paz), the town gives you a real feel of what colonial Bolivia must have been like. The museums here are a must for anyone wanting to brush up on their Bolivian history.

Potosi, not far from Sucre and reportedly the highest city in the world, is a mining city which attracted miners from around the world to plunder the silver reserves. Even the architecture is stunning, the cathedral dating from the 1600s standing out above the rest. The mines of Cerro Rico are worth a trip to Bolivia in themselves.

Uyuni, a little further south than Potosi, is a beautiful little town with a real colonial feel. One of the attractions is, believe it or not, a train cemetery. Uyuni is mainly used by backpackers as a gateway to the famous salt flats (Salar de Uyuni), which are simply breathtaking (type Uyuni into Google Images and judge for yourself).

On the way back to La Paz is the town Cochabamaba, where a statue of Christ stands watching over the residents. Bigger than the world famous Cristo Del Corcovado in Rio, the view from the top is simply astounding.

La Paz itself has sites worth attempting a visit. San Pedro prison is quite unlike any other in the world. Prisoners have to buy their cells, they have their own keys and can decorate them how they wish. The drug barons often live in luxury penthouses whilst the poorest inmates sleep on the floor in the courtyard; often in sub-zero conditions. Wives and children can live with the prisoners, and every morning the gates open for the kids to go to school.

It is, however, very difficult to gain access. Those with a firm grasp of Spanish and the suitable bribes stand a better chance, however it must be remembered that it is a prison, and your personal safety should always remain your priority, so be careful before making the decision to go.

One final stop on the way out of Bolivia towards Cusco in Peru should be the famous Lake Titicaca, shaped like a Puma, and well worth a visit. Renting a pedalo can be fun, but they are remarkably unstable and the lake is nearly 1000ft deep.

It is always important to be cautious before embarking on any trip. Bolivia is no exception. This should, however, certainly not stop you from appreciating this amazing country, where so much is possible. With a bit of care and a healthy dose of respect for the culture, there is no reason for your parents to be unduly concerned, unless of course you do intend to actually get that Black Sabbath tattoo.

Suggested Route:

La Paz - Rurrenabaque - La Paz - Uyuni - Potosi - Sucre - Cochabamba - Puno (Peru)

Base Camp - Jungle Tours - Prison - Salt Flats - Mines - Architecture - Christ Statue - Lake Titicaca.

Two Weeks:

Fly from La Paz to Rurrenabaque, do a three day jungle tour, then fly straight back to La Paz. Organise a bus from here down to Uyuni, spend a day seeing the salt flats, then head up to Potosi to see the mines. Spend a couple of days exploring Sucre, and a day in Cochabamba, before getting the bus out back into Peru (Puno). You'll need a couple of days chilling at Lake Titicaca after all that travelling!

Four Weeks:

Take the bus to Rurrenabaque (if you're into being scared half to death), and do a couple of tours there. The water tours are a kind of 'introduction to the jungle', whereas the jungle tours are more of a 'back to nature' kind of thing. Spend an extra couple of days at the salt flats, and really explore Sucre - it's a fantastic place. Stop at Challapampa on Lake Titicaca and visit Isla Del Sol, where there are hundreds of Inca Ruins. Then head on to Puno a few days later and go fishing in the lake.

Top Tips:

1. If there are four or more of you going on your jungle tours, then you can demand (politely) to have a tour of your own. This will mean that you won't end up crammed into a boat with 15 other backpackers, and you'll have the full attention of your guide.

2. Try and get them to include horse riding through the jungle included in your tour price, it's not often advertised, but it's a great thing to do.

3. Haggle, especially if you're in a group - but don't get too carried away. A few pence off the price means a great deal more to them than it will to you.

4. Eat the food, particularly from street vendors. Empanadas are really good, as is llama meat, but be aware that 'cuy' means guinea pig - it tastes good, but some people are, naturally, a little put off by the thought of eating something we consider a pet.

5. Make sure your MP3 player is fully charged, you're in for some long bus journeys!

About the author: Warrick Howard

Hola! I'm Warrick, I'm 24, and I'm a backpacker.

I've been travelling, on and off, for the past 8 years. I've been fortunate enough to visit every continent on this diverse planet, with the exception of Antarctica (which is next on my hit list).

Over the years I've thrown myself out of aeroplanes, swam with Bull Sharks, hurtled down grade 4+ rapids on a sledge, jumped off bridges, swam in piranha infested waters, travelled down the world's most dangerous road, and I once even poked a koala bear with a stick.

About the editor: Sam Booth (Editor, Gapyear.com Writers Academy)

Currently studying History at Nottingham University. I never wanted to take a gap year but at the last minute headed off travelling with four mates from school to Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Chile, Argentina and Brazil. It changed my life, definitely the best decision I ever made!