Travel Blogs: Fiona Egglestone

Fiona Egglestone's Travel Blogs

Two days and counting...

Leaving on a jet plane, don't know when I'll be back again...

For some reason that song keeps going round in my head, but actually, it pretty much sums up my situation right now.

Two days and counting...

I'm currently at home, surrounded by various things strewn around my room which I'm hoping are all going to fit into my backpack. I keep telling myself that I don't need to take a lot, but there's always one more thing that 'might come in useful'. A girl can never have too many pairs of shoes, right? Just kidding, I've only got the six pairs...

The last few days have been a bit of a blur of Christmas parties, catching up with friends and family and fighting my way through the Christmas shoppers making sure I've got all the essentials for my trip. After working three jobs for that past four months, it's been long enough to start getting attached and making good friends, and I'm feeling a little sad to be leaving. But only a little, because now I can almost feel the warmth of the sun on my back, as I look out across a breathtaking landscape topped by clear blue skies...It's the thought of arriving in New Zealand that's been keeping me going the past few months and it will soon become reality.

Right now, I've got that funny feeling that I should be doing something - a bit like when you've just finished all your exams and you keep thinking you should be revising until you realise that actually you've finished. I've been so busy for the past few months, sometimes literally rushing from one job to the next, that now I have some free time I'm not sure what to do with it.

I'm flying via LA to Auckland, where I've got a day to shake off the jet lag before celebrating the New Year and the start of my gap year in style. Or at least in the bar of the hostel where I'm staying!

New Zealand here I come!

Greetings from Auckland

After what seemed like forever on a plane, I finally arrived in Auckland. After having not slept for 48 hours waiting in airports/on planes, I couldn't wait to get to the hostel and jump in the shower. Sleep, however, was not on the agenda, at least, not just yet!

As the hostel was offering free passes for the Sky Tower, I decided to check out the city from a more lofty perspective. In any city with a distinctive tall building, it's virtually obligatory to go up it. For me, nothing will beat the sight of New York from the Empire State Building at night, but I have to admit that this was pretty spectacular! It was a beautiful, clear day in Auckland and we could see right across the bay and the islands surrounding Auckland. One of the first things I noticed was how green it all was, even in the height of summer, and the fact that there was go much greenery - tree lined avenues and parks dotted the city. It was the perfect introduction to the city and made me keener than ever to explore.

That evening I met up with some of the other backpackers I had met in LA while waiting for our connection. Tiredness had finally caught up with us by then and after one drink in the bar we were all yawning and decided to call it a night. The city (and the bar) would still be there waiting for us tomorrow....

Bay of Islands - Sweet As!

After spending a few days in Auckland, it was time to head out of the city and explore the area they call 'the winterless north'. I am now up in the Bay of Islands and staying in Paihia for a few days before I fly down to the South Island. the weather is glorious and there is a really good vibe here.

I took at trip today to Cape Reinga, the most northerly point in New Zealand. The trip today was incredible and Spike, tour guide/driver was amazing - he told us lots about the places we went, including the Maori stories about how different things were formed, which was really interesting, and other things including info about the native flora and fauna - very informative and interesting! He also taught us a classic NZ phrase 'sweet as', meaning something like, 'it's all good'. It was a long day as we started at 7am and did not get back till 6pm but we packed loads in! We went to see the ancient Kaouri trees (the oldest known one is over 2000 years old!), many of which were 600-800 years old! Cape Reinga is the most northerly point in NZ and is very picturesque. The Tazman Sea meets the Pacific here and you can see exactly where it is as the colour of the water is different.

We went sandboarding which meant climbing up to the top of a really high sand dune (very hard work!)with a body board and then pushing off from the top. It's kinda like snowboarding except you're lying down, but the principle is similar. It was quite steep and a bit scary but at the same time it was exhilarating!

90 Mile Beach is in fact, 64 miles long, a huge stretch of golden sand with great, crashing waves which reminded me of the Big Sur in California. If fact it is the same ocean, just the other side of it. Here the water was lovely and warm and we dug up shellfish, which some people ate but I didn't really fancy that.... It was fun driving along the beach, skirting the water.

On our way back we stopped off at a couple of interesting places. One was a place which sold things made from ancient Kaouri trees which had been dug up from the swamps. The wood had a lovely warm tone and the centrepiece of the shop was a huge staircase which had been carved from a giant Kaouri tree. Finally, after a fun packed day we reached what Spike told us is the best fish and chip shop in NZ. The fish is caught and processed every day by the shop so it is very fresh and tasted delicious! We sat outside and ate our fish and chips with a nice cold beer - very relaxing!

I have met loads of great people so far, and I also keep bumping in to the same people! Lucy and Claire, the two girls who I met on the plane are also up here, and so is Natalie who was in my dorm in Auckland! I did not know they were coming and we all came up on different tour buses. The funniest thing was today we all did the same tour to Cape Reinga and as all the companies do basically the same route we kept bumping into one another all the time! We all had a good night in the bar here last night - very like being back at uni!

Hoping to go dolphin spotting soon...

Ice, ice baby!

Hiking out on the glacier was an incredible experience. I found myself using the word 'amazing' at regular intervals, but really there was no other word to describe it. Perhaps I need to make up a new one...

The glacier itself is in a rainforest region, so strangely enough it's actually pretty warm out on the ice. We went out in small groups with our guide, who planned the route and cut steps into the ice for us to walk more easily. We also had to wear special 'ice talonz' which strapped to our boots to help grip the ice.

We marvelled at deep crevasses and blue ice caves, climbed steep ice faces and slithered to tiny looking gaps. In places the ice has a frosting of earth or small pieces of rock which had transported from higher up the glacier, which actually made it even more spectacular as it lent definition to the ice. In places the thing it most reminded me of was Vienetta ice cream! Spending the whole day on the ice allowed us plenty of time to take photographs and get right to the top of the glacier and explore its heart. In places our guide cut a new track for us, so that we were walking on ice that had never been set foot upon before!

To finish off the day, I went up in a plane for a scenic flight - and to go sky diving! This was something I had always wanted to do and it had to be one of the most beautiful places in the world to do it. I was also incredibily lucky with the weather; a calm, clear, sunny day turned into a glorious evening. We flew up over Fox Glacier, looking out towards Mount Aspiring, Mount Cook and Mount Tasman! It felt like being up in another world, flying high above the clouds as the sun started to go down.

Then came the moment of truth - time to exit the plane. As it was a tandem jump, it wasn't too scary, although I did feel a moment of fear when we first left the plane and began to free fall. Once I had got over the initial shock, I loved it! It gave me a totally different perspective on my surroundings. I jumped at 12,000 feet, so had a 45 second freefall before we deployed the parachute and began the descent of about 4 or 5 minutes. I was even able to take some photos of the landscape whilest in the air! Feeling the wind rushing past my face as we glided gently down was so exciting, and once we landed I really wanted to go up again...

Catching the summertime vibe

Leaving the wonders of the South Island behind me, I flew up from Christchurch to Tauranga. I had to change planes in Auckland, getting on the smallest commercial flight I had ever been on. We had to walk out onto the airstrip to get on the plane which held only 19 passengers! Once we got close to Tauranga, it was almost like a personal scenic flight. We flew over Mount Manganui and its beautiful, sweeping beach, flying so low that I could actually see people swimming and sunbathing. As we landed, my first thought was how lucky I was to get to live here for 6 months.

Everyone I have met so far in New Zealand is so friendly; they make you feel really welcome. I shared a taxi with a guy I met on my flight. On the way into the city, he pointed out the sights and recommended some bars and cafes to me, and told me to go and visit his wife in the local library and inviting me to visit them some time.

Tauranga has a really good vibe about it. It's got a kind of holiday feel about it, with lots of good bars/cafes/restaurants along the waterfront with live music on the weekends. Mount Manganui is a ten minute drive away cross the bridge. It's slightly more touristy, but even on a Saturday in the holiday season there was plenty of space on the beach and we had no problem parking.

The day after I arrived I met Dawn and Zoe, the other two British girls who will be doing the same job as me. I'm going to be working for the YMCA, running after school programmes for primary school children. We are becoming really good friends already, and I can tell we're going to have a lot of fun here.

On Friday we had our orientation and got to find out a bit more about what we'll actually be doing. I think I've landed on my feet here; bascially we just have to entertain the children, and there are themes for each day/week to give us ideas for activities. We met some of the staff who we'll be working with (they're all lovely, although I've forgotten most of their names! - too much information in one go!). Then it was time to have a go in one of the 'vans' - basically just small minibuses. Having never driven anything other than a small car I was rather nervous. It's something I would never have done at home, but I think since coming to NZ I'm far more open to trying new things and having a go. It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be, although parking is probably going to be interesting! The best thing was when they told us we can use the vans for roadtrips on the weekend - and the only thing we have to pay for is fuel. As they say here, sweet as!

When our new boss asked us if we were up for an adventure I wasn't sure what to expect! It turned out that they have a house, previously used as a daycare centre, that they are trying to sell. Until they do, they've offered it to us for free. We went up to see it and it's pretty big - great for house parties! The only catch is there isn't really any furniture, but I'm sure we can sort something out...

Starting work properly on Wednesday, so I've got a few days to relax - and find some furniture!

Getting back to nature on Stewart Island

The ferry journey over from Invercargill to Stewart Island could only be described as 'interesting' as we bounced over the waves on the hour-long journey. I figured that it could be classed as an adventure sport in its own right. The woman sitting opposite me looked as though she was riding a white knuckle ride; her eyes were tightly shut and she was gripping the table for dear life! Then crew told us that this was a fairly calm day...

There are less than 400 people who live on Stewart Island, and practically all of them live in its one township, Oban. It's a friendly little community; while walking around, taking in the sights everyone greeted us with a smile and a cheery hello. Almost all of the island is National Park, and there are lots of walks and hikes you can do around the island, from half hour strolls to tramps taking several days.

I was travelling with Lise, a Swiss girl I'd met on the Kiwi Experience bus. We dropped our bags off at the hostel, and after grabbing a map from the local tourist office, we set off to explore one of the coastal paths. Clinging tightly to the coast, the route swept us around an number of bays, each more beautiful than the last, and for the most part, completely deserted. As we climbed higher, the walk took us deep into the native bush, where we marvelled at huge fern trees and the lush greenery of our surroundings. Birds called to each other from the treetops, a strange symphony of whistles and song. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of one or other of the birds, a flash of colour above our heads before it vanished into the treetops once more.

I don't know how far we walked that day; it was so peaceful and relaxing we just kept on going. The sun was beginning to set by the time we finally returned to the hostel. I felt tired but energised; it was so good to go hiking in such spectacular surroundings, and so unlike some of the other places we had already visited which were equally beautiful but full of tourists and day trippers.

The next day we took a water taxi over to Ulva Island, a fifteen minute boat ride from Stewart Island. On the way over, we were lucky enough to spot a blue penguin in the water ahead of us. It didn't seem at all bothered by our presence, and we watched it for a while before moving on. Ulva Island is part of the marine reserve, and totally protected. As such, it is a haven for native birds, especially those which are endangered. Several species have been reintroduced to the island and are now florishing there. The Department of Conservation managed to eradicate rats from the island a few years ago, so there are no predators on the island any longer. Apparently rats have been known to stow away on boats from Stewart Island, so you have to check your boat - and your rucksack to make sure you are not bringing any uninvited guests with you!

Everywhere was green and lush, and the calls of birds echoed from high amongst the canopy. We saw Stewart Island robisn, parakeets, oyster catchers and weka (a flightless bird related to the kiwi). They made me think of a cross between a chicken, a mallard duck and a wading bird. Unlike their reculsive cousin the kiwi, they are very much active in the day, and the weka on Ulva Island, while wild, have become very bold around humans. While there were signs telling us not to feed the weka, that did not stop the weka from trying to snatch a meal from us. When we sat down on the beach to eat our lunch, they crept up on us, peaking into our bags and looking hopefully at us. One confident bird tried the hit and run approach, snatching a boy's sandwich from his hand before making a quick escape...

Tomorrow we have to catch the ferry back to the mainland to rejoin the Kiwi bus for the next leg of our journey to Te Anau, Milford Sound and back to Queenstown. So many people don't realise that New Zealand is actually made up of three islands. I'm glad I made the effort to visit Stewart Island; I feel as though I have seen a different side of New Zealand, a side that perhaps not too many tourists see on a whistle-stop tour of the country.

Feeling the vibes at the festival

I've just got back from an amazing weekend at the Soundsplash Festival in Raglan, on the west coast of North Island. It was my first roadtrip with the other two British girls who I'm working with, Dawn and Zoe. We were all pretty excited, cranking up the radio in the minibus and getting into the festival mood as soon as we left work on Friday. We were pretty impressed that we managed to get the whole way there without getting lost at all, especially once it got dark. There was quite a lot of traffic getting to the festival, which was at a reserve just outside Raglan (and a short walk from a beautiful beach!). When we finally got to the campsite we had to put our tent up - which was interesting to start with as it was a new tent which we'd never used before, and we only had one rubbish torch between the three of us (note to self - remember to pack Maglite next time...). The stars were absolutely incredible though! As Raglan is pretty isolated there was hardly any light pollution, and the skies were covered with a spider's web of constellations.

From the campsite it was about half and hour's walk to the festival site (those lucky people who had been able to get there earlier had bagged all the best camping spots right by the ampitheatre already). The festival had two stages; the main one was outdoors in a natural ampitheatre made by the hills, so the sound was amazing!. The second, smaller stage was in a large tent, showcasing the slightly more alternative acts. By the time we got there it was really buzzing and I could tell that we were in for a fantastic weekend.

There were all sorts of stalls to wander around, selling everything from crafts and jewellery to lovely vegetarian food. As the emphasis of the festival was also on environmental and humanitarian issues there was a real emphasis on recycling - food and drink were served in cardboard dishes with wooden spoons. At the end of the festival there was a sign saying that they'd managed to recycle 85% of the waste. One of the eco stalls there was trying to raise awareness about the problem of plasic bags filling up landfill sites. Apart from some interesting information, they also had a canvas bag painting area, so we had a go at that. It was very popular and I thought it was a great way to spread awareness about the issue.

The bands were mainly NZ reggae and dub bands, some of whom I had heard since I'd been over here and others that I didn't know. My highlight of the weekend had to be seeing The Black Seeds and Kora, both of whom I have got into since travelling on the Kiwi bus - not only did our driver guides show us the country, they also tried to introduce us to some Kiwi music as well. All the bands were really good and everyone was dancing outside until after 4am both nights. It was a great atmosphere, very relaxed and friendly. It was also practically alcohol free, as they would not let you bring any alcohol onto the site and there was only a tiny bar which you had to stay in if you wanted to drink. We didn't bother - it was too much like hard work!

On Sunday the festival had finished so we went to the beach. We had discovered it on Saturday afternoon - it was so cool just to be able to be at the festival, wander down to the beach and then back to the festival again - talk about perfect location!! The beaches around Raglan are famous for surfing (and watching surfers!) and unusually they are black sand rather than the standard golden sand you find elsewhere. As I've found everywhere else in NZ, the water was beatiufully clear and inviting. It was also warm and perfect for cooling off on a hot day.

Raglan itself is a small town, and very alternative - we saw lots of posters for things like yoga and spiritual awareness classes, and there were some lovely galleries and nice cafes/restuarants. Sadly we had to leave on Sunday evening to get back to Tauranga for work on Monday morning. It was such a beautiful place that I would have liked to have stayed longer and explored the area a bit more. Perhaps next time...

Getting hot and steamy in Rotorua

A blissfully relaxing day! Alex, Bernie, Zoe and I drove to Rotorua today to experience the joys of the hot pools and check out the eerily spectacular mud pools. Rotorua is a place unlike any other, and really has to be seen (and smelt) to be believed. All the guidebooks had mentioned how much Rotorua smells, and I have to confess it's not the most fragrant place I've been. The characteristic 'rotten egg' smell of sulphur is prevalent throughout the city and the surrounding area, but after a while you become used to it. The sight of steam rising from the ground gave the city an otherworldly feeling.

The Coromandel Adventure!

On 1st of June it became officially winter here. Since then I have been swimming in the sea and kayaking in the sea (with the sort of kayak that has holes in the bottom so you get wet). The Kiwis think we're mad, but I said no, we're British..... Admittedly the sea was a little cold for swimming, but we were at Hot Water Beach, so we ran straight back to our very own natural hot pool and jumped in to warm up. It's still not really that cold in the Bay of Plenty although I'm told that down south it's pretty chilly now. All the locals are complaining about how cold it is, but it's still much better than a bad British summer...

Zoe, Simon, Daniel and I drove up to Whitianga in the Coromandel Peninsual The roads were interesting to say the least, curving around the hills in a series of hairpain bends (where were the Romans when you needed them?). We arrived in Whitianga and located our hostel. It was pretty quirky with fantastic windowseats overlooking the beach. After a long car journey, we were keen to stretch our legs, so we dumped our bags and headed out for a moonlit stroll.

On Saturday morning we had breakfast in the kitchen/living area overlooking the coast. It was beautiful and sunny; we couldn't wait to get out there and explore. With a guidebook, map and emergency chocolate rations we set out for the famous Hot Water Beach. At the right time of day, you can dig a hole in the sand to reach the hot springs underneath. This, however, is easier said than done. After we had spent some time digging only to have our holes collapse straight away, we discovered that it's far easier to build a wall first and then attempt to dig out the hole. Even so, our hole ended up being more of a hot water ditch and required periodic maintenance to keep it from getting filled in by the sand the springs carried along with them. I did suffer from a slight case of 'hole envy'; the people near us were locals and had obviously perfected their technique over several years...Their hole was practically a swimming pool! We also started a new fashion trend on the beach. While we'd come prepared in swimming gear it was also pretty rainy to start with, so we ended up with a bizarre combination of swimwear and raincoats....Hmmm.

We were there in time for sunset and sat on the beach to watch the sky turn orange and pink as the light faded. On the way back we had a bit of a night hike (a result of having spent too long admiring the sunset at Cathedral Cove!). Luckily for us the moon was huge and full and lit our way for us without the need for torches. We found a lonely swing on one of the beaches, which of course we had to try out...

The next morning we took the kayaks out into the bay in front of the hostel. It started to rain as soon as we were out on the water but we persevered and the sun came out for us. It was so peaceful out on the water and a great way to see the coastline from a different point of view. Later on we took the ferry over the short distance to the next bay for another walk which took us to several small beaches via clifftop paths and through woodland and fields. We dashed home later that evening to grab something to eat before going out again, this time to see the NZ reggae band Katchafire, who were playing in the Coroglen Tavern (which was in the middle of nowhere, just off State Highway 25). The atmosphere there was fantastic! As you would expect for a reggae concert, it was very laid back and everyone was grooving to the music. The gig was behind the actual pub, outside in a huge barn-type structure; it was more like being at a festival than going to see a band at the local watering hole.

Thanks to Queen Elizabeth II, Monday 4th June was a public holiday here in NZ. The Kiwis were amazed when we told them that we don't have a public holiday for the Queen's birthday in the UK! It was our last day in the Coromandel and we were determined to make the most of it. We took the 309 route from Whitianga to Coromandel Town, which was full of interesting things to see and do. Not least was the road itself - no more than a gravel track in places with only room for one car!

We stopped off at a place to do a high ropes course, which involved climbing up 15ft high telegraph poles and then walking along various ropes and beams, etc. Although you were harnessed and roped up, it was still very scary and a real challenge! The hardest one was where you had to stand up on the top of a telegraph pole (without holding on to anything), and then jump up and catch a trapeze bar. There was also a massive swing where you were harnessed to a rope and had to jump from a platform. I screamed so loudly as I stepped off the platfrom, and I'm still not sure whether it was with fear or excitement - probably a mixture of the two!

After the adrenalin rush we carried on, stopping at a pretty little waterfall, a kauri grove and a place called Waiau Waterworks. This was one of the many highlights of the weekend. There were loads of waterworks designed in ingenious ways, including some you could play on such as bikes that squirted water when you pedalled them. By far the best bit was the playground, designed for big kids as well as little ones! We spent ages there mucking about on the flying fox zip wires, swings, boat racing around a water course and playing in the giant hamster wheel. As they say here, it was awesome!!

Sadly, the weekend had to end sometime, and after grabbing a bite to eat we drove back to Tauranga, tired but happy.

Wellington - New Zealand's Cultural Capital

The lights of Wellington stretched across the horizon as my bus drew closer to the city. Days of torrential rain had stopped play on the outdoor activities front, putting paid to any thoughts of doing the Tongariro Crossing or even the outdoor cultural show I had planned to go to in Rotorua. I was looking forward to being in a city again, and I had heard great things about Wellington's arts and cultural scene.

I stayed in a well appointed hostel in the lively Courtney Place, which was packed full of funky looking bars, quirky cafes and second hand bookshops.

Top of Wellington's must-see sights is the famous national museum, Te Papa. It's far too much to take in all in one go, but as entry is free, it's a great place to pop in to for a couple of hours at a time.

I particularly liked the 'Blood, Earth Fire' exhibition, which focuses on the transformation of New Zealand, or to use the Maori name, Aotearoa. The exhibition documents the dramatic impact that people have had on the land, from the earliest Maori arrivals, to the more recent arrival of the Europeans in the mid 19th century until the present day.

The exhibition explored diverse aspects such as the Maori spiritual connection with the land, how settlers have changed the face of the landscape through agriculture and the introduction of foreign plants and animals, early and ongoing conservation projects. One of the highlights of the exhibition was a film entitled 'My Place', featuring a diverse range of New Zealanders talking about their special places and exploring their connections with the land. Not only was it visually stunning, it offered insights into ordinary peoples' lives and how they use and feel about the land they live in.

I also really enjoyed the 'Bush Walk', a recreation of the natural bush experience complete with caves (and glow worms)! There are loads of fun interactive things, such as creating your own bird or testing whether you would survive in a different environment - were great fun for both kids and big kids alike.

Funky Cuba Street was great for shopping and cafe hopping, perfect for watching the world go by. As you would imagine for the cultural mecca of NZ, there was a lot to see, from arty students to the downright weird. It was in Cuba Street that I first caught sight of 'Blanket Man', a locally famous 'streetie' who never wears more than just a large blanket.

I also went to see a play at the cutting edge Circa theatre, and caught a movie at the beautiful art deco cinema, The Embassy, which was refitted for the premiere of Lord of the Rings. The screen is huge and I settled in to the luxurious seat and forgot about the wind and rain howling outside.

Wellington also has a number of walks which include parts of the city and its surroundings, including the Botanic Gardens, woodland and coastal areas. The well produced leaflets are easy to follow and walks can be done in stages if you don't have the time or inclination to do a whole one. I did part of the Southern Walkway, which took me up Mount Victoria for great views of the city.

Wellington lived up to its reputation. I loved everything about it, from the cafes to the cultural experiences and the people I met in the city. Upon leaving, I felt as though I had really got to know the city, even though what I had seen and done so far was only scratching the surface of this vibrant metropolis. Perhaps on my next trip...

Sydney Rocks!

It's strange to be back in a big city after spending so many months in New Zealand, where even the two largest cities, Auckland and Wellington aren't that large by international standards. To begin with it was a blur of lights, people and traffic, but Dawn and I soon found our way around (like most modern cities, it's more or less built on a grid system, so pretty easy to navigate once you've got your bearings.

On Sunday, we wandered up to the Rocks, where I got excited as the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House came into sight. The Rocks is a quirky, interesting area with a market at the weekend selling crafts, photographs, jewellry and all sorts of Australian souvenirs, as well as a wide range of boutique shops and funky looking bars and restaurants. A special one day Aroma Festival was on that day, so the whole area was packed full of people, both tourists and locals alike. Several white tents were dotted around the area, where for a small charge you could sample a wide range of coffees, teas and chocolates.

Three stages also played host to a number of bands who kept festival goers entertained, despite the rain. As the skies opened, up went a sea of umbrellas, or failing that, people found whatever cover they could. In the case of a group of Korean girls in front of us, this meant putting their magazines on top of their heads, making a row of strange, pointy hats.

There was a great atmosphere throughout the festival. Perhaps it was the high levels of caffeine, but everyone seemed happy and friendly. Others let go of their inhibitions completely, and danced enthusiastically in front of the stage, although it has to be said, some were grooving to their own beat rather than the music! One rather large American woman dressed in orange waved a water bottle like some sort of talisman as she danced, and a young Asian boy with the best rhythm I've ever seen in a child danced until he was dragged away by his parents.

It was a really unusual day - what a fantastic idea for a festival! We spent most of the day there, wandering around the stalls and the shops in the Rocks area, listening to the bands and people watching. One of the things I love about travelling is coming across local events like the Aroma Festival. It gives you a different view of a place, and you feel far more connected with the area than just travelling through.

I'm looking forward to exploring more of Sydney over the next few days and then heading out to check out some of the suburbs and the famous beaches...