Stuff you need backpacking around Uganda

English is widely spoken as the lingua franca, but Swahili will come in handy in places (though many Ugandans do not speak Swahili at all, it is a common African trade language). As English is the official language, many people in the major cities speak English (though to varying degrees of fluency). Dozens of African languages are spoken in Uganda, the most common being Luganda and Lusoga. A few words or stock phrases in the various dialects are very easy to learn and most locals will be delighted to help you learn the highly ritualised greeting, and in turn, every person you greet in this way will be delighted to meet you. olio-tia = how are you?; bulungi/gendi = i am fine; jabalay = how is it here/how is work?; kalay = ok Nyabo = madam; ssebo = sir Muzungu = white person, technically a person not from here, a foreigner The Swahili 'Jambo' meaning hello is used everywhere and you will hear lots of ecstatic children waving, jumping, hopping and singing Jambo muzungu as you roll past.

Food from Uganda is a sensation. You could sample the luwombo, which is meat cooked in green leaves. It has a tantalising aroma. You could also try the fried fish, though its mainly cooked on the beach and it is found to be succulent. You might also want to try the traditional matooke, binyebwa (ground nut sauce), chappatti, and meat stew. Toasted sandwiches can be found in some places for the less adventurous. If this does not appeal, it is best (and far more interesting) to stop at roadside stands or in markets to purchase fresh produce -- fruits and vegetables abound and are very cheap, to say nothing of the roasted mealies and roasted chicken. There are also a number of fast-food places, such as Nando’s, Steers, Domino’s Pizza, and Hungry Lion, in the city centre. A basic local dish start at around 500 USh, and goes up to 3000 USh. A cut-up pineapple you can have for only 300. See the Fang Fang Hotel below for good Chinese food in Kampala. Other Chinese restaurants with good food include Fang fang restaurant (different from hotel above), China Palace, and Golden China restaurant all located in the city centre. In Entebbe, try the Boma Guesthouse on Gowers Rd. (see below under Sleep). Local food in Entebbe can be found at the Golf course restaurant and at the Airport Motel among other places. In Jinja, the Ling Ling offers some great Chinese food. But head downtown on Main Street to the Source Cafe for a great variety of food (and you can surf the web while you eat).

Coffee is one of the best products from Uganda, but the British hooked the locals on tea, so finding a decent cup of native joe is nearly impossible, especially outside of Kampala. In Kampala, try the coffee house 1000 Cups on Buganda Road. Their coffee is also sold at the airport, Banana Boat stores, and many hotels. The coffee is marketed under the name Kiira Kawa (River Coffee). In Jinja, stop by the Source Cafe for an incredible cappucino--they had the sweetest espresso machine! Chai tea is available widely, and is best in the rural areas near the tea plantations. You will see signs posted on shops and kiosks where it can be purchased. Sadly, ordinary black tea is likely to be Five Roses imported from South Africa, not the local tea. Lower-end South African wine can be had in some restaurants, but stick with the beer. Any of the four major brands are acceptable, though the Pilsner brand is the only one made without added corn sugar for those who care about such things. Be advised to drink Bottled water. Water flowing from taps is not treated.

The national currency is the Ugandan shilling, code UGX, sometimes written as UgSh. There are 50000, 20000, 10000, 5000 and 1000 shilling notes and 200, 100, 50 and 10 shilling coins (although the 10 shilling coin is no longer issued). Other currencies that might be accepted for transactions are the US dollar (USD), notes must have been issued since 2000, or possibly the Euro (EUR) or British pound (GBP). Older US notes might not be accepted even in banks but newer US notes can be spent directly at fair exchange rates, although you will receive shillings in change. With Visa debit/atm cards you can withdraw money in at least one ATM in Kampala's City Garden mall. With mastercard debit/atm cards, you can withdraw money from any Stanbic bank, which are in many points around Kampala, from the large Western shopping mall Garden City to campus hangout Wandegaya to Ntinda and Gayaza Road. Stanbic banks are seen throughout Uganda, from Mbarare to Gulu. Information can be obtained from the bank branches. As for your American Express card: leave it at home - you can't use it. Banana Boat, an overpriced but pleasant gift shop in Kampala, takes several credit cards, and can be found in Lugogo shopping area and Garden City. They sell traditional dolls, postcards, books, leather sandals, jewerly, and many other items. Gifts can always be found much cheaper if you can bargain at other craft shops (try Uganda Crafts, a fair trade store on the way to Makerere Univeristy), but they don't take credit card. You might be able to use u.s. dollars, but I would recommend exchanging your money for shillings (it's about 1700 shillings to the U.S. dollar, and about 3400 shillings to the U.S. pound- a bottle of water is about 500 shillings, a candy bar is 500 shillings, a meal can range from 2000 shillings to 15000 shillings). Cashing travelers checks can be difficult. Exchanging notes is possible in the larger towns if you need Ugandan Shillings. Note that there are better rates for exchanging larger notes (US$50 or more), so do it in big chunks if you need to. Try to have all your cash needs arranged before leaving Kampala if you can ('red-fox' forex on kampala road is thought to offer the best rates in the country).

Costs

Food and goods are cheap. On a shoestring you can get by on less than 10 euro a day, excluding park visits and other expensive activities. Make sure you bargain for everything you buy around town except in the bigger stores and malls. Never pay face value when buying from the local vendors around town. Hotels can be costly, so if you are a student it would be a good idea to look for a hostel in Kampala. Most people have to buy a visa when they arrive at the airport currently (2006-May-04) this costs US $30 (bills must be newer than 2000!). You used to have to pay when you left the country (air-tax), but this has been removed. Tipping is not part of Ugandan culture and not expected, but it would definitely get you amazing service.