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Bangkok to Brighton by tuk tuk: Exploring Vang Vieng

Sunday 4th June 2006: Vang Vieng, Laos
Jo writes...

"We are now in Vang Vieng about 150km north of Vientiane. Our driving speed has dropped to an average of about 30mph due to the copious potholes and winding hilly roads. Ants and I were both knackered today and so were each trying to get the other to drive. We both ate too many cakes over the weekend and as a result were feeling pretty sluggish.

On Saturday night we headed out to one of the two recommended restaurants in Vientiane. The food was quite good, but not a patch on Thailand. The company was interesting. This guy came over and sat at our table who was totally pissed (I assume on BeerLao). He repeated himself very frequently (as drunk people do) and spoke in broken English. His best comment of the night was 'I love you Mr Ant', which I have taken to repeating far too frequently. He fell off the stool and nearly took our table with him. After about 10 minutes our food came, but we were being typically reserved Brits and didn't tell him to leave. In the end a security guard and a waiter asked him to go, which he eventually did. We paid for our supper and then left the restaurant to head back into town.

The fabulous Ting Tong

On Sunday, we awoke and had breakfast with more ants in it, which was charming. I didn't need to eat sausages as I had enough protein from the little critters. We went out sightseeing to the beautiful gold temple (can't remember the name) that is the most important in Laos. I don't wear sunglasses and therefore might have sustained slight damage to the innards of my eye- gold is worse than snow. We did a bit of filming and then in the afternoon went for a herbal sauna and massage. I didn't like the sauna and only had a short session. The hot moist air makes me feel panicky and I find the sensation really unpleasant. Instaed I drunk herbal tea and smoked lots of fags.

We then had a massage, which was divine. I had a man and Mr Ant had a lady - Ant got the short straw it seems after we compared notes. Luckily I had put my underwear back on under my sarong as it fell off when I sat up mid massage. I know I am a naturist but there is a time and place for nudity and that wasn't it. Poor Mr Ant felt rather unrelaxed after her massage, especially having had the inside of her arm pinched quite hard (unintentionally). What better way to finish off the afternoon than with a sandwich and chocolate eclair. The sandwich was good, but the chocolate eclair contained the wrong sort of cream and to add insult to injury they had added custard. I ate it all the same, but was none too impressed.

This morning we split up. Ants went to sort out our Laos permits and I did some minor tuktuk mechanics i.e. checked the oil, water, tyres and tightened the big bolt on our steering column as our suspension keeps on dropping. Ants returned from the Ministry of Transport without the permit. Apparently the staff spoke very little English and suggested we return to the Friendship Bridge. Not an option, so she managed to get them to agree to do the paperwork, which we would collect later that morning. Good one Ants.

Nam Song

At 10.30am we hit the road and I tried to drive down a one way street the wrong way - well done Jo. We picked up our permit and hit the road. As we headed out of town, we pulled in to get the tyre pressure topped up. They were each 3psi down and I wrote down the required tyre pressures on my hand for the woman with the air gun. She nodded and squirted some air into TT's tyres. I wondered how she knew the correct pressure as there didn't seem to be a guage visible. Still, I assumed that as she filled up tyres all day then she knew what she was doing. TT suddenly felt very easy to steer and I thought she had probably put a bit too much air in. I didn't realize till later that she had double the suggested air pressure. I will never let a random person violate poor TT again. We are lucky her tyres didn't burst from the excessive air. Tomorrow we will get our digital tyre inflator thing from the roof and do our own air in the future. The vehicles in Laos must all have the most pumped up tyres in SE Asia and this is a risky thing if riding a motorbike - or a three wheeler.

Next stop was lunch, which was cold and had unidentifiable objects floating in it - however, it tasted pretty good. As we neared Vang Vieng, I thought it might be nice to stop and have a drink by a river. I assumed that the guy that welcomed us was the owner of the shack. He turned out to be totally wasted on BeerLao and proceeded to fill our glasses and slobber all over my cheek. Totally gross, but quite amusing and Ants got some good photos and filming - all at my expense. Enough waffle from me now, good night and good afternoon to those in the west. Off tubing tomorrow and no more cake eating."

Tuesday 6th June 2006: Vang Vieng, Laos
Jo writes...

"Our second night in tourist-tastic yet beautiful Vang Vieng. This is definitely the most white people I have seen in one place since England. Today we both woke up knackered, even though we had had plenty of sleep. We had planned to go on a full day of excursions, but neither of us felt like being super-energetic. After a huge pineapple pancake and cup of tea, we decided that we had to make the most of our day here, because the surrounding environment is breathtaking. We pottered into town and went to a tour operator recommended by the Lonely Planet. Within a few minutes we had sorted out a bespoke itinerary and went back to our bungalow for an hour before they picked us up.

We first drove a few km out of town and then ended up by the river to begin our first adventure, kayaking. I went kayaking aged about 12, but thought it must be quite easy as I have seen it lots on TV. The thing is, if someone makes something look really easy then it actually means that it is difficult and they are professionals. I was put in the back and given the task of steering. I lost all knowledge of left and right, forwards and backwards and before long I was sitting on a rock in the middle of the river and Ants had jumped ship. I was then told to paddle rather than steer and I swapped to the front of the kayak. I am not particularly fit at the moment but I managed to propel us down the river at a sort of doggy paddle speed. Ants was much better at steering and there were no more rock incidents. My arms started to get pretty tired and I was glad when we stopped for our next adventure.

Jo with Pon, the river guide

The next adventure consisted of two large tractor tyre inner tubes being given to us, which we put our butts in and pushed off into the river. This was a far more relaxed way to see the mountains and rocks at a half doggy paddle speed. Luckily we had a wonderful guide with us called Pon, who told us which way to go to avoid the rocks. We stopped for lunch at a riverside shack and had beer and spring rolls.

There were lots of other tourists there who we had a nice chat with. We explained about our trip, which some other Brits had read about on this very site! It's strange how many people we meet who have already heard about our trip one way or another. They only put two and two together when they see us in TT.

After lunch, we carried on our tubing and stopped at a water cave called the sleeping cave. The reason for this is that during the second World War about 200 people lived in the caves for a few months as the Japanese invaded. It was pretty amazing, but I get a little scared in deep water and Ants and I asked Pon repeatedly if there were any snakes, spiders or alligators. He assured us there were none.

Back on the river and soon it was time for another BeerLao break. I was a chicken but Ants threw herself off a 20ft rock into the river. The Laos family at this shack kept a pet baby monkey, which they had rescued after its mother fell off a rock and died. It was very cute and had a punky grey hairdo. Ants wanted to touch it but it squeeked and ran off when she approached.

Just as we approached Vang Vieng, the skies opened and we got drenched. I found the experience very beautiful and refreshing - high tree covered mountains surrounding a river valley with no sign of modern life. It was one of those very peaceful and special moments.

Back to our hotel and quick wash before supper. Off to Luang Prabang tomorrow and we anticipate a good seven hours on the road, providing we get TT up the muddy stony steep slope. Goodnight."

Love Ants and Jo x

Click here >> to follow the journey from the beginning
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Vientiane, Laos
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Vang Vieng, Laos
Click here >> to Ants' and Jo's update from Luang Prabang, Laos
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on arriving in China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on troubles in China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Stone Forest, China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on China Under Construction
Click here >> for Ant's and Jo's update; dirty tukkers in China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on Western China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Silk Road
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Great Wall of China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on sand tobogganning in the desert
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Turpan, China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's final update from China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update from Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Almaty, Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update Lake Balkash, Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on their impressions of Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update on Russia
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's thoughts on Russia

Why are Ants and Jo undertaking this crazy trip?
The girls are completing the 12,000 mile journey from Bangkok to Brighton in an attempt to raise £50,000 for the mental health charity Mind. Here at gapyear.com, we fully support their efforts and wish them the best of luck in their challenge. We'd also ask that anyone who has a spare few pennies sponsors Ants and Jo, as it really is a fantastic cause.

Click here >> for the full story

More about Mind Mind

Mental health problems can affect anyone, rich or poor, young or old, shattering the lives of those affected and the lives of the people close to them. One in four of us will experience a mental health problem at some point in our lives. Each year more than 250,000 people are admitted to psychiatric hospitals and over 4,000 people take their own lives. Mind is the leading mental health charity in England and Wales working to create a better life for everyone with experience of mental distress.

Further info

Click here >> for an interview with Ants and Jo
Click here >> to sponsor them now - every penny counts...
Click here >> for Ants and Jo's website
Click here >> to find out more about Mind
Click here >> for more fundraising information

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