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Bangkok to Brighton by tuk tuk: Goodbye China

Sunday 9th July 2006: Saryam Lake, Xinjiang Province. China
Ants writes...

"Our last day in China, how strange. At last after 30 days of driving across this massive country the Kazakh border is within spitting distance, a mere 60km or so west from here. The last month has been an intense experience; exhausting, exhilarating, stressful, hilariously funny, mindblowingly beautiful, frustrating and immensely rewarding. After all the trials and tukulations that China has put us through I never felt I would be feeling sad to leave it behind. But I am.

Stunning views from China

We couldn’t be spending our last day here in a more idyllic setting, yet today is tinged with a sadness that has really surprised me. More than anything I can’t believe that we have been on the road for six weeks, and that we are half way home. It’s as if the gears of time have gone into fast-forward and are catapulting us towards our final destination in turbo mode. Although we are both appreciating every moment there’s nothing we can do to slow it down. It’s like trying to grasp a handful of sand, the more you clutch at it the faster it disappears. Before we know it Jo, Ting Tong and I will be back in England, and all the weird and wonderful experiences we are having will be locked in the catacombs of our mind. But that’s life, just chapters of memories to be cherished and learnt from.

Yesterday was a tuk to the road personal best. We left Urumqui at 9am, the streets still deserted due to the city living on Xinjiang time (although the clocks here are officially set to Beijing time the people live two hours behind, the same as Kazkahstan and the rest of Central Asia), and arrived at this magic lake at 8.30pm last night. Eleven and a half hours on the road, and 650 km covered. The day seemed so long that I couldn’t get my head round the fact that it had all happened in a single day.

Stunning views from China

From Urumqui to here we had crossed desert, steppe, fields of sunflowers, empty scrub land and wheat fields, guided all the way by the aptly named Tien Shan - Heavenly - mountains. We set off in the morning unsure of our destination, our fate to be decided by whether we were allowed on the expressway. Our fist attempt failed and the irate lady at the toll told us to tuk off in no uncertain fashion. Undeterred, we tried the toll gate about 20km further west. Again the guards shook their heads and told us to be off to the old road, where other three-wheeled beasts dwelt. He also added that a few km further on there was a slip road where we could surreptitiously tuk onto the expressway. Which of course we did.

The next 450 km were spent speeding along on glorious tarmac, slipping through tolls before they could change their minds and waving merrily at policeman who we were convinced would stop us. Although Jo and I feel that not being allowed on the expressways has in fact turned out for the best, there are times when it’s a joy to be on them. Without yesterday’s luck we would never have made it to Saryam Lake last night and been able to spend our last day in China riding, walking and enjoying the unspoilt wilderness of China’s final frontier.

Apart from feeling sad about leaving China today has been perfect. Jo, Jack and I went riding this morning, up into the mountains and across some very gallop-able grassland. Last time I rode with Jo was aged about 14. Today was a bit more genteel, and apart from the odd canter we mostly just lazed along at a walk or trot and enjoyed the view. Everyone here has horses, they are their livelihood. They spend their whole lives on their four-legged friends, herding their flocks, then eat them when they get too old to work. Being a vegetarian, I was delighted to read in our Central Asian Lonely Planet this morning that horsemeat is also a national specialty in Kazakhstan. Horse sausage, horse intestine, horse liver... horse everything. I’ll just stick to the veggies, thanks.

Stunning views from China

So tomorrow morning, early, we pack up TT for the last time in China and head West to the border at Khorgos. We should reach the border by 9am, then with a bit of luck, be on the way to Almaty a few hours later. Its 300 km to Almaty and the roads are allegedly good, so we should be there by early evening, to meet up with my mother who is flying in from the UK tonight. Fingers crossed we will be having a celebratory first Kazkakh dinner tomorrow night, and all our worries about the border will have been for nothing. Lets hope our guardian angels are with us.

Finally, apropos to absolutely nothing, half of one of my teeth fell out yesterday morning whilst eating a dried mulberry. What with the 15 grey hairs I found before we started the trip, you might as well put me in an old peoples home now and be done with it. I advise everyone to avoid dried mulberries, they are extremely dangerous."

Love Ants and Jo x

Click here >> to follow the journey from the beginning
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Vientiane, Laos
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Vang Vieng, Laos
Click here >> to Ants' and Jo's update from Luang Prabang, Laos
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on arriving in China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on troubles in China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Stone Forest, China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on China Under Construction
Click here >> for Ant's and Jo's update; dirty tukkers in China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on Western China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Silk Road
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Great Wall of China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on sand tobogganning in the desert
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Turpan, China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's final update from China
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update from Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Almaty, Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update Lake Balkash, Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on their impressions of Kazakhstan
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update on Russia
Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's thoughts on Russia

Why are Ants and Jo undertaking this crazy trip?
The girls are completely the 12,000 mile journey from Bangkok to Brighton in an attempt to raise £50,000 for the mental health charity Mind. Here at gapyear.com, we fully support their efforts and wish them the best of luck in their challenge. We'd also ask that anyone who has a spare few pennies sponsors Ants and Jo, as it really is a fantastic cause.

Click here >> for the full story

More about Mind Mind

Mental health problems can affect anyone, rich or poor, young or old, shattering the lives of those affected and the lives of the people close to them. One in four of us will experience a mental health problem at some point in our lives. Each year more than 250,000 people are admitted to psychiatric hospitals and over 4,000 people take their own lives. Mind is the leading mental health charity in England and Wales working to create a better life for everyone with experience of mental distress.

Further info

Click here >> for an interview with Ants and Jo
Click here >> to sponsor them now - every penny counts...
Click here >> for Ants and Jo's website
Click here >> to find out more about Mind
Click here >> for more fundraising information

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