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Bangkok to Brighton by tuk tuk: China under construction Saturday 17th June: Huanguoshu Waterfall, ChinaJo writes... "Right now we in a hotel in Huanguoshu, where there is a very large waterfall that is supposed to be one of the key highlights of this province, Guizhou. We arrived too late to enter during daylight, but were lucky enough to arrive as they were staging a night lightshow (apparently because of the World Cup). So we had some supper and descended 559 steps to see the waterfall illuminated by green floodlights. I have never seen a waterfall by night and it was quite impressive - I actually think we enjoyed the experience more than if we had seen it during daylight. Back to the last two days of driving. The roads seem to have improved since we left Yunnan, although rather than being bad all of the time, they are now bad just some of the time. Today’s drive had mostly good tarmac, but we were slowed down by the steep and windy mountainous roads. Ting Tong has a front disc brake and back drum brakes. The disk brake is a motorcycle brake and is used for about 80% of our braking power. This is not ideal when we are descending steep windy roads and instead of speeding up between corners, we have to keep her in third gear and use the engine as our main brake. This is not a criticism of her construction, because it is the only way that she could be built - she is just not big enough to have a front brake like a car.  Yesterday was possibly our most challenging day, although I didn’t find it as mentally tough as the driving last week. Our accelerator pedal had felt really stiff for a while and we thought it had begun to get more stiff. I spoke to my Dad and he warned that the cable may snap. Lo and behold, I am driving down the road and the cable snaps. We were right out in the sticks, with the nearest form of civilization 20 minutes away. I phoned Anuwat (our tuk tuk maker) and told him the problem. He told me that it was really easy to fix and that we needed to find a spare cable. Thank goodness Anuwat had sent us on our way with two full boxes of spares which live on Ting Tong’s roof-rack! We located the cable and Anuwat explained that we needed to unscrew the front seat and get access to the engine. He then explained that we needed to find the carburettor. We toyed with the idea of hitching a lift to the next town and getting a mechanic to come and help us. However, the fact that Anuwat had said it was easy to fix made me want to try it without help. The next two plus hours were spent on our hands and knees or back fixing the problem. This involved removing the old cable and putting in a new one. If we had to do the same job again it would probably take just 20 minutes, but we were trying to cut a new cable complete with plastic sheath down to size. We then had to make sure the tension was correct and cut it to size so that it did not dangle on the floor. Eventually we succeeded, a combined effort from Ants, myself and Sam (our brilliant guide). It was with great trepidation that I started the engine and drove off, unaware whether the tension would be OK. To our great relief TT was driving like a dream. Once in the next town we asked a mechanic to check our handiwork and he said it was fine. I cannot tell you satisfying doing our own mechanical repairs was, even though it left us with many hours still to drive. The rest of the day was OK, apart from a rather hairy patch of road that was under construction. I have decided to get a T-shirt made which reads 'China, Under Construction'. The driving here is the worst I have experienced anywhere in the world. The Chinese make the Indians look like Formula One drivers. There is no regard for other road users at all and wing mirrors are not used. People here may as well be wearing blinkers (like horses) for all the attention they pay to other road users. Our day ended with a tropical downpour. The rain was like nothing we get in England. It is like having buckets of water thrown at you from all angles. When the rain started Sam and I put down the back rain covers, with me holding a limp and useless umbrella over my head. We hoped the rain would pass, but it got stronger and stronger, until everything in the back was soaked. We eventually made it to the hotel at 9pm. It was a town that I doubt sees any Westerners and as we parked TT outside and staggered into the hotel, I think they could hardly believe their eyes!"  Ants writes..."The last few days have, as Jo has aptly illustrated, been incredibly tough. We covered 270 km in 11 hours yesterday, and 240 kms in nine hours today. Yesterday was hellish; not only did we have to deal with fixing the accelerator cable, but we got totally drenched by the most violent tropical rainstorm I have ever had the misfortune to encounter. So suddenly was it upon us that, by the time Jo had bravely leapt out to put down the raincovers, us and all our stuff was drenched. All I cared about was the DV camera, which we wrapped in my tropical poncho and luckily saved from a watery grave.  So now we find ourselves in Guizhou province where they have a predilection of dog meat. This has me looking at every dog wondering if it is dinner or a pet. We’ve already experienced some of the regions famous karst landscape, and the roads today have taken us through some incredible mountains, rice terraces and lakes dyed electric green by the limestone. As for the roads, they are definitely better than Yunnan, but still hard work. The potholes are smaller but the S bends just as challenging. Having said that though, we did encounter a stretch of road this morning that had me wondering how the hell we would make it across. At one point I had to hang off the side of Ting Tong to balance her as Jo navigated one particularly deep rain-filled pothole. Slightly hair-raising. The roads may be better but the driving is still totally bonkers. Our ‘best’ stretch of road yesterday was perhaps the scariest we have encountered; buffalo carts doing U turns onto the carriageway, trucks coming straight at you down the wrong side of the road and upturned nails where temporary speed bumps once were. You can’t afford to lose concentration for a nanosecond. I still can’t work out why so many people here seem to favour driving the wrong way down dual carriageways, or going round roundabouts backwards. One final thing; the loos here are the worst I have ever encountered - think Glastonbury on day three and you are almost there. I nearly vomit every time I have to use one, much to Jo’s amusement. She certainly has a stronger stomach than I have." Love Ants and Jo x Click here >> to follow the journey from the beginning Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Vientiane, Laos Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Vang Vieng, Laos Click here >> to Ants' and Jo's update from Luang Prabang, Laos Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on arriving in China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on troubles in China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Stone Forest, China Click here >> for Ant's and Jo's update; dirty tukkers in China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on Western China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Silk Road Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on the Great Wall of China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on sand tobogganning in the desert Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Turpan, China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's final update from China Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update from Kazakhstan Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Almaty, Kazakhstan Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update Lake Balkash, Kazakhstan Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update on their impressions of Kazakhstan Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's first update on Russia Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's thoughts on Russia Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's update from Europe Click here >> for more rainy rumblings from Russia Click here >> for sparkplugs and sunshine in Russia Click here >> for a historical tour of Volgograd, Russia Click here >> for beach life in Russia Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's arrival in the Ukraine Click here >> for Ukrainiacs and mechanics Click here >> for Ants' and Jo's adventures in The Crimea Click here >> for Ants and Jo at the end of the road  Why are Ants and Jo undertaking this crazy trip?The girls are completing the 12,000 mile journey from Bangkok to Brighton in an attempt to raise £50,000 for the mental health charity Mind. Here at gapyear.com, we fully support their efforts and wish them the best of luck in their challenge. We'd also ask that anyone who has a spare few pennies sponsors Ants and Jo, as it really is a fantastic cause. Click here >> for the full story More about Mind  Mental health problems can affect anyone, rich or poor, young or old, shattering the lives of those affected and the lives of the people close to them. One in four of us will experience a mental health problem at some point in our lives. Each year more than 250,000 people are admitted to psychiatric hospitals and over 4,000 people take their own lives. Mind is the leading mental health charity in England and Wales working to create a better life for everyone with experience of mental distress. Click here >> for an interview with Ants and Jo Click here >> to sponsor them now - every penny counts... Click here >> for Ants and Jo's website Click here >> to find out more about Mind Click here >> for more fundraising information |
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