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Transport in Russia

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Trains

We all know that Russia is huge, so chances are if you’re travelling around it will be by train (short commuter journeys are serviced by ‘eletrishkas’ - basic trains with wooden benches). I am no trainspotter but I have had some of my best nights on trains. The elegant and cosy trains speed across stunning landscape and rock you into a deep, satisfying sleep.

You need to buy a ticket beforehand, so make sure you bring your passport, and have the patience of a saint! Queues are very long and without Russian it can be difficult to make that purchase. If you find yourself cracking with frustration, make your way to a ‘Service Centre’. Designed for wealthier Russians and foreigners, the staff are English-speaking and more helpful, but you will pay extra.

You can chose between four classes:
1st class: 2 bed coupe
2nd class: 4 bed coupe
3rd class/‘plascart’: dormitory style layout, most popular among Russians
4th /5th class: Reclining seats, not always available, best avoided except for short journeys

If there are a few of you and you plan on staying awake for a while, I’d recommend the four bed coupe as it’s more private, you can make more noise and lock the door. If travelling alone ‘plascart’ is the better choice as it’s more public so less chance of being stuck with some dodgy characters and more chance of meeting some cool Russians.

All trains for journeys over 12 hours have a dining cart but most people bring their own food and drink. At the end of every carriage is hot water for tea, noodles etc. There are also toilets for every carriage which are fine. Just remember to bring your own toilet roll and they are locked about 20 minutes before and after each major station, so get your timing right! Finally, a woman will go around checking everyone’s ticket and renting sheets for 35 roubles. This is definitely a wise investment because it makes your bed more comfortable and cleaner.

Internal Flights

If you are short of time then flying between main cities is an option. Plus you get to try Aeroflot at last, I have and I’m still alive. Planes are much faster but a lot dearer. To fly from Saratov to Moscow takes one-and-a-half hours and costs 3,500 roubles; the train is 16 hours and 500 roubles ‘plascart.’

Within towns and cities

Metro: In Moscow this is the main form of transport; about 10 million people use it every day. Ridiculously cheap, efficient and beautiful, you will want to use it all the time. Buy a 10-journey ticket for 60 roubles from the ticket ‘kacca’. If staying for longer there are 20 and 50 journey tickets, or monthlies. Slot the ticket into the turnstile and pass through, making sure you walk through the turnstile on your left. If you get it wrong sirens go off, barriers spring in front of you blocking your path and worst of all an angry babushka starts screaming at you - a harrowing experience. There are plenty of metro maps around the stations with Russian and English script. Make sure you get a look at one before arriving to work out the lie of the land. It is important to know that junction stations all have a different name even though they are basically in the same place. You know what train to take by the sign hanging from the middle of the platform; the train on the left side goes to the stations named on the left side of the sign. St Petes has a smaller and less impressive metro system.

Avoid rush-hour (8am to 10am and 4:30pm to 7pm). Be prepared to force yourself into a train as they get really packed and people aren’t afraid to be aggressive to get on. Stand on the right side of the escalator unless walking up.

Bus / tram / trolleybus / marshutka: These are used in all cities across Russia and cost very little.

Taxi: Official taxis can be hard to find so a lot of Russians prefer to flag down random cars on the road and bargain a price with the driver. Very cheap and convenient, it’s not advisable for a non-Russian speaker or someone who doesn’t know the city; it can be unsafe, plus the fact that it’s illegal doesn’t help much.