Stuff you need backpacking around Spain

Unsurprisingly, the offical and universal language used in Spain is Spanish (español, castellano), but it's more complicated than that, as it differs in pronunciation and other details. It is part of the Romance family of languages (which together with Portuguese, Italian, French, and Romanian constitutes one of the main branches of that family), and is more properly called Castilian (castellano). However, there are a number of languages — Catalan, Basque, Galician, Asturian, Valencian, Balear, etc — spoken in various parts of Spain. Some of these languages are dominant in their respective regions, and following their legalization in the 1978 constitution, they are co-official with Castilian. Except Basque (whose origin is still discussed) the languages of the Iberian Peninsula are all associated with the Romance family of languages and are fairly easy to pick up if you know Castilian well. Learning a little of the local languages where you will be traveling will help endear you to the locals.

• Catalan (Catalan: català, Castilian: catalán), is a distinct language very similar to Castilian but related to the L'Oc branch of the French language group and specifically associated with Provencal. Various dialects are spoken in the northeastern region of Catalonia, the Balearic Islands, and Valencia (where it is often referred to as Valencià), east of Aragon, as well as neighboring Andorra and southern France. At first, one might think of it as a cross between Spanish and French.

• Galician (Galician: galego, Castilian: gallego), very closely related to Portugese, Galician is spoken in Galicia and the western portion of Asturias. Galician predates Portuguese and is deemed one of the four main dialects of the Galician-Portuguese family group which includes Brazilian, Southern Portuguese, Central Portuguese, and Galician.

• Basque (Basque: euskara, Castilian: vasco), a language unrelated to Castilian (or any other known language), is spoken in the the three provinces of the Basque Country, on the two adjecent provinces on the French side of the Spain-French border, and in Navarre. Basque is unrelated to any Romance language or to any branch of the Indo-European or Indo-Iranian family of languages. It currently remains unclassified and is deemed a linguistic isolate seemingly unrelated to any branch of the linguistic family tree.

• Asturiano (Asturiano: asturianu, Castilian: asturiano, also known as bable), is spoken in the province of Asturias, where it enjoys semi-official protection. It was also spoken in rural parts of Leon, Zamora, Salamanca, in a few villages in Portugal (where it is called Mirandes) and in villages in the extreme north of Extremadura. While the constitution of Spain explicitly protects Basque, Balearic-Catalan-Valencian under the term Catalan, Galician, and Spanish, it does not explicitly protect Asturian. The province of Asturias explicitly protects it and Spain implicitly protects it by not objecting before the Supreme Court.

• Aragonese (Aragonese: aragonés, Castilian: aragonés, also known as fabla), is spoken in the north of Aragon, but is not recognized as an official dialect. This dialect is similar to Catalan and Castilian with some Basque and Occitan (southern France) influences.

• Aranes (Castilian: Aranés, Catalan: Aranès), is spoken in the Aran Valley, and is recognized as an official language of Catalonia (not of Spain). This language is strongly related to Occitan.

In addition to the native languages, English or French are commonly studied in school. If you are visiting a touristic area you will find people who are fluent in several languages. You won't be so lucky in other places as most Spaniards speak English rather poorly. Your best bets are young urban people. Speak slowly, use simple words and don't hesitate to use gestures or a notebook to be understood. Chances are people will understand words more easily if you write them down. French is the most widely understood in the north-east of Spain, like Alquezar and Cap de Creus (at times even better than English), as majority of travelers there come from France. Locals will appreciate any attempts you do to speak their local language. For example, "Good morning" and "Thank you".

The Spanish are very passionate about their food and wine and Spanish cuisine. Spanish food can be described as quite light with a lot of vegetables and a huge variety of meat and fish. The Spanish cuisine does not use many spices; it relies only on the use of high quality ingredients to give a good taste.

Lunch and dinner times

Spaniards have a different eating timetable than most people are used to. The key thing to remember for a traveler is:

• lunchtime starts at 1:30pm/2pm, and finishes before 4pm
• dinner starts at 8:30pm or 9pm, with most clientèle coming after 9pm.
• between that, most restaurants and cafes are closed, and it takes extra effort to find a place to eat if you missed lunch time.

Normally, restaurants in big cities don't close until midnight during the week and 2-3am during the weekend.

Breakfast

Breakfast is eaten by most Spaniards. In cafes, you can expect varieties of tortilla de patatas (see the Spanish dishes section), sometimes tapas (either breakfast variety or same kind as served in the evenings with alcohol). Traditional spanish breakfast, though, is usually based on sweet things: hot chocolate with "churros" or "porras",...

Tapas

The entry level to Spanish food is found in bars as tapas, which are a bit like "starters" or "appetizers", but are instead considered side orders to accompany your drink. Some bars will offer a wide variety of different tapas; others specialize on a specific kind (like seafood-based). A Spanish custom is to have one tapa and one small drink at a bar, then go to the next bar and do the same. A group of two or more individuals may order two or more tapas or order raciones instead, which are a bit larger in order to share. Tourists are easily spotted when they load their plates full of tapas.

Fast food

Fast food has not yet established a strong grip on the Spaniards and you will find McDonalds and Burger King only in bigger towns in the usual places. The menu can be a surprise since it has been customized to appeal to the locals and beer, salads, yogurt primarily Danone, and wine are prominent. Pizza is increasingly popular and you will find some outlets in bigger towns but it can be their own homegrown franchise, TelePizza, as well as Pizza Hut.

Restaurants

Seafood: on a seacoast, fresh seafood is widely available and quite affordable. In the inner regions, frozen (and poor quality) seafood can be frequently encountered outside few highly reputated (and expensive) restaurants. In coastal areas seafood deserves some attention, especially on the north Atlantic coast. Meat products are usually of very good quality, because Spain has maintained quite a high percentage of free range animals. Soups: choice of soups beyond gazpacho is very limited in Spanish restaurants. Water is frequently served without a specific request, and is normally charged for--unless it's included in your menu del dia.

Tipping and VAT

No service charges are included in the bill. A little extra tip is common and you are free to increase that if you are very pleased. Obviously you don’t have to tip a lousy waiter. You would typically leave the small change after paying with a note. VAT is-not-included is a common trick for mid-range and splurge restaurants: always check in menu whether VAT (7%, IVA in Spanish) is included in menu prices.

Menú del día

Many restaurants offer a complete lunch meal for a fixed price – "menú del día" – and this often works out as a bargain. Water or wine are commonly included in the price.

Touristy places

Typical Spanish food can be found all over the country, however top tourist destinations such as Costa Brava and Costa del Sol have turned all existing traditions upside down. Meaning that drinks are generally more expensive (about double) and it is difficult to find proper Spanish food in the tourist centers. However you will get Schnitzel, original English breakfast, Pizza, Donair, and frozen fish. However, if you are prepared to look a little harder, then even in the busiest tourist towns, you can find some exceptional traditional Spanish restaurants. If you are on the coast then think fish and seafood and you wont be disappointed.

Non-Spanish cuisine

Italian gelaterias are the most frequent kind of non-Spanish cafes; English and Irish pubs follow. Japanese restaurants and sushi bars are rare, at least in touristy parts of cities.

Specialties to buy

• Cheese: Spain offers a wide variety of regional cheeses.

• Queso Manchego is the most famous one.
• Idealis... is another frequently cited, ~€20 per ball.

• Chorizo: Spain's most popular sausage is made from pork, ham, salt, garlic and pepper and is produced in multitude of varieties, in different sizes, shapes, short and long, spicy, in all different shades of red, soft, air dried and hard or smoked. Frequently contains emulgators and conservatives, so check ingredients if you feel sensitive.

• Jamón (air dried ham): Jamón Serrano (Serrano ham): A tinned food obtained from the salt meat of the back legs of the pig and air dried. This same product is given the name of trowel or paletilla when it is obtained from the front legs. Also it receives the names of jamón Iberico (Iberian) and jamón of bellota (acorn). They are specially famous jamones that takes place in Huelva (Spain), in Guijuelo (province Salamanca), in the Pedroches (province Cordova) and in Trevélez (province of Granada). Jamón Iberico is made from free range pigs.

Judging by Boqueria in Barcelona, Jamon Iberico starts at €80/kg, and Jamon Serrano is about €25/kg.

• Morcilla: Sausages made from pig blood flavoured with anise, it comes as a fresh, smoked or air dried variety.

Spanish dishes

Typical dishes are:

• Mariscos: Shellfish. Best shellfish in the world you can eat in the province of Pontevedra.

• Calamares en su tinta: Squid in its ink.

• Chipirones a la plancha: Grilled little squids.

• Caracoles: Snails in a hot sauce.

• Pescaíto frito: Delicious fried fish that can be found mainly in southern Spain

• Fabada asturiana: Bean stew from Asturias.

• Gambas al ajillo: Prawns with garlic and chili. Fantastic hot stuff.

• Gazpacho Andaluz: Cold vegetable soup. Best during the hot weather. It's like drinking a salad.

• Merluza a la Vizcaina: The Spanish are not very fond of sauces. One of the few exception is merluza a la Vasca. The dish contains hake (fish of the cod family) prepared with white asparagus and green peas.

• Aceitunas, Olivas: Olives, often served for nibbling.

• Lentejas: A dish made from lentils with chorizo sausage and/or Serrano ham.

• Potajes or pucheros: Garbanzo beans stew at its best

• Paella: Famous rice dish originally from Mediterranean area. There are different variations: seafood, chicken and rabbit, etc. While dishes called paella can be found in virtually every restaurant in Spain (and it will claim to use true authentic recipe and ingredients), its true variety is quite rare: it should contain Safran (which is expensive) and, originally, some seafood (which can't be trusted outside coast towns). Locals suggest to find true paella in large parties like a wedding in a village, but few restaurants still can compete with it.

• Pimientos rellenos: Peppers stuffed with minced meat or seafood. The peppers in Spain taste different than all other peppers in Europe.

• Potaje de espinacas y garbanzos: Chick pea stew with spinach. Typical of Seville.

• Tortilla de patatas: Spanish egg omelet with fried potato. Probably the most popular dish in Spain. You can easily assess how good a restaurant is by having a small piece of its potato tortillas. Frequently it is made also with onion, depending on the zone or the pleasure. The potatoes must be fried in oil (preferably of olive), and they are left soaking with the scrambled egg for more than 10 minutes, although better if it is average hour so that they are soaked and they acquire the suitable consistency.

• Patatas bravas: They are potatoes cut in form of dices or prism, of one to two centimeters of size approximately and that they are fried in oil and accompanied by a sharp sauce that spills on potatoes using hot spices. The name of this plate comes from its sharp flavor, indicating that it has fire or temperament, recalling the first operation of I goad in which a goad nails to him so that he is brave in the bullfight.

• Churros: A fried horn-shaped snack, sometimes referred as a Spanish doughnut. Typical for a Spanish breakfast or for tea time. Served with hot chocolate drink.

Tea and Coffee

Spanish people are very passionate about the quality, intensity and taste of their coffee and good freshly brewed coffee is available almost everywhere. The usual choices are solo, the milk-less espresso version; cortado, solo with a dash of milk; con leche, solo with milk added; and manchado, coffee with lots of milk (sort of like the French cafe au lait). Asking for caffee latte will likely result in less milk then you are used to--it's always OK to ask for adding extra milk. Starbucks [15] is the only national chain operating in Spain. Locals argue that it can't compete with small local cafes in quality of coffee and only visited by tourists. Can be found only in larger cities: Barcelona (18 outlets), Madrid (20 outlets), Sevilla (7 outlets) and Valencia (2 outlets)--as of Oct 2007. It is not present in smaller cities. If you eat for €20 per dinner, you will never be served a good tea; expect Pompadour or Lipton. It takes some effort to find a good tea if you spend most time of the day in touristy places.

Alcohol

The drinking age in Spain is 18. People under this age are forbidden to drink and buy alcoholic drinks, although enforcement in tourist and clubbing areas is lax.

Bars

Probably one of the best places to meet people in Spain is in bars. Everyone visits them and they are always busy and sometimes bursting with people. There is no age restriction imposed to enter these premises although children and teenagers often will not be served alcoholic drinks. Age restrictions for the consumption of alcohol are clearly posted at bars but are enforced only intermittently. It is not uncommon to see an entire family at a bar. Bars are mainly to have drink and a small tapa while socializing and decompressing from work or studies. Usually Spaniards can control their alcohol consumption better than their northern Europeans and drunk people are rarely seen at bars or on the streets. A drink, if ordered without an accompanying tapa, is normally served with a "minor" or inexpensive tapa as a courtesy. Size and prize of tapas changes a lot throughout Spain. For instance, it's almost impossible to get free tapas in big cities like Madrid or Barcelona while you can eat for free (just paying for the drinks), with huge tapas at cities like Granada or Badajoz. The tapa, and the related pincho, trace their existence in Spain to both acting as a cover ("Tapa") on top of a cup of wine to prevent flies from accessing it, and as a requirement of law when serving wine at an establishment during the middle ages.

Beer

The Spanish beer is not too bad at all and well worth a try. Most popular local brands include San Miguel, Cruzcampo, Mahou, Ambar, Estrella Galicia, Keller and many others, including local brands at most cities; import beers are also available. A great beer is 'Mezquita' (Cervezas Alhambra), try to find it! In Spain, beer is often served from a tap in 25 cl ("caña") or 33 cl ("tubo") tube glasses. Bigger servings are rare, but you can also ask for a "corto", "zurito" (round the Basque country) or simply "una cerveza" or "tanque" (south of the country) to get a half size beer, perfect to drink in one go and get quickly to the next bar while having tapas. If you're in Zaragoza (or Aragon, in general), the best beer available is the Pilsner-type Ambar (5.2% alc.) and the stronger Export (double malt, 7.0% alc.). Ambar 1900: Its production began in 1996. The system of fermentation to room temperature is used. Marlen is a beer of traditional manufacture using malted barley and hops. Locals in Aragon often add lemon juice to their beer.

Cava

Cava is Spanish sparkling wine and was invented after a long lasting dispute with the French about the right name for the sparkling wine. The Spanish called it for a long time champan, but the French argued that champagne can made only from grapes grown in the Champagne region in France. Nevertheless, Cava is a quite successful sparkling wine and 99% of the production comes from the area around Barcelona.

Cider

Can be found in the Basque Country, Galicia and Asturies.

Horchata

A milky non-alcoholic drink made of tigernuts and sugar. Alboraia is regarded as a best place where horchata is produced.

Sangria

Sangria is drink made of wine and fruits and usually is made from simple wines. You will find sangria mainly in touristy places prepared for tourists. Spanish prepare sangria for fiestas and hot summer, and not every day as seen in toristic regions like Mallorca. Sangria in restaurants aimed for foreigners are best avoided, but it is a very good drink to try if a Spaniard prepares it for a fiesta!

Sherry (Fino)

The wines around Jerez are very high in alcohol and they produce the famous sherry. If you would like to have one in a bar you have to order a fino. Manzanilla is bit salty, good as an appetizer. Amontillado and Oloroso are sweet, good after having a meal.

Wine

Spain is a country with great wine-making and drinking traditions: 22% of Europe's wine growing area is located in Spain, however the production is about half of what the French produce. Regions: The most famous wines come from Rioja region, less known but also important comes from Ribera del Duero. The latter are becoming more and more popular and are slightly more expensive than Rioja wines. White, rose and red wines are produced, but the red wines are certainly the most important ones. Grapes: The primary red grape used is Tempranillo, the primary white grape used is Albarino, and the privary Jerez grape used is Pedro Ximenez but others can be found. The grapes used are quite delicate and thus there is a reduction in yield. Specific names: Valdepenas is good value for money. Whites: Belondrade Y Lurton regarded as greatest white wine in Spain. Vina Sol is good as a mass product, with fruity taste. Grades: Spanish quality wines are produced using an aging process and they have been in a oak barrel for at least one year before they can be labeled Crianza and then spend another two years in a bottle before been sold. Reservas are aged for five years and Gran Reservas are aged for 10 years. Prices: Spain has seen a tremendous rise in wine prices over the last decade and Spanish wines are not as much of a bargain as they were a decade ago. However you will still find 5, 10 and 20 year old wines at affordable prices especially when compared with similar quality wines from Australia, Chile, France, and the US. In a bar: For red wine in a bar, ask "un tinto por favor", for white wine "un blanco por favor", for rose: "un rosado por favor". Wine-based drinks: Young people in Spain have developed their own way to have wine. When having botellones (big outdoor parties with drink and lots of people), most of them will be mixing some red wine with Coke and drink such mix straight from the Coke bottle. The name of this drink is calimocho or kalimotxo (in the Basque Country and Navarre) and is really very popular... But don't ask for it while in an upper class bar, or among adults, since they will most certainly not approve of the idea!

To call home cheap you may opt to buy prepaid calling cards which are widely available in newspapers or groceries stores around the city. Simply ask for a "tarjeta telefonica". Another convenient alternative is to use call-through services such as http://www.chollofon.com or http://www.reducitel.com. By simply dialling an access number before the number you wish to call you will enjoy pretty cheap international calls. For example you can call US and most European countries for only 2ct/min by dialling 901 888 020. You can use it directly from any landline or payphone. Please note that these are different companies so there prices could differ.

Money

Euro: Spain is part of the European Union and the Eurozone; as such it replaced Spanish Pesetas(symbol: pts) with the Euro (symbol: €) in the year 2002. Since it has been only a few years since the introduction of Euro cash, a few people will still use the old national currency conversion. For example, it is entirely possible that a Spaniard would still refer to pesetas (166,386 pts = 1 €, 1.000 pts = 6 €) to convert into euros later. This is much due to the huge presence of peseta, and "her" many nicknames in colloquial Spanish. Cash euro: €500 banknotes are not accepted in many stores--always have alternative banknotes. Other currencies: Do not expect anybody to accept other types of currency, or to be willing to exchange currency. An exception are shops and restaurants at airports. These will generally accept at least US Dollars at a slightly worse exchange rate. If you wish to exchange money, you can do so at any bank (some may require that you have an account there before they will exchange your money), where you can also cash in your traveller's cheques. Currency exchanges, once a common sight, have all but disappeared since the introduction of the Euro. Again, international airports are an exception to this rule; other exception is touristic districts in the large cities (Barcelona, Madrid). Credit cards: Credit cards are well accepted: even in a stall at La Boqueria market in Barcelona, on an average highway gas station in the middle of the country, or in small towns like Alquezar. It's more difficult to find a place where credit card is not accepted in Spain. Most ATMs will allow you to withdraw money with your credit card, but you'll need to know your card's PIN for that. Many Spanish stores will ask for your passport, driving license or ID card before accepting your credit card. Although somewhat awkward for people from Eurozone countries that do not have an ID Card, this measure is declared to help avoid credit card robbery (although it doesn't help that much).

Business hours

Most shops and public offices close from 1:30pm to 4:30pm or 5pm, excluding those located in large malls or belonging to big stores. If you plan to spend whole day in shopping, a closed shop should remind it's also time for your own lunch. And when you finish your lunch, some shops will be likely open again.

Сlothes and shoes

Designer shops Besides well-known mass brands which is known around the world (Zara, Mango, Bershka, Camper), Spain has many designer brands which are more hard to find outside Spain--and may be worth looking for if you shop for designer wear while travelling. Some of these brands include:

• Custo Barcelona, [11]. Headquartered in Barcelona, has stores in Bilbao, Ibiza, La Coruna, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Leon, Madrid, Marbella, Palma de Mallorca, Salamanca, Tenerife.

Department stores

• El Corte Ingles. National chain that can be found in every city. In most cities, enjoys central location but resides in ugliest buildings. Has department for everything--but is not good enough for most purposes, except maybe for buying gourmet food and local specialities. Still very popular with uneducated shoppers.

Others

• Casas. A chain of footwear stores that selects most popular(?) models from a dozen+ of mid-range brands.

• Camper, [12]. Camper shoes can be seen in most cities in the country. While it may seem that they are sold everywhere, finding right model and size may be a trouble--so if you find what you need, don't postpone your purchase. Campers are sold both in standalone branded shops, and as a part of a mix with other brands in local shoes stores. Standalones generally provide wider choice of models and sizes; local stores can help if you need to hunt for a specific model and size.

• For, [13]. Private national chain featuring many premium brands. Main location is Bilbao; some stores in San Sebastian and Zaragoza.

Souvenirs

Apart from classical tourist souvenirs, here are some things that are hard to find elsewhere, or even unique.

• Kukuxumusu t-shirts, [14]. Creative series of good-quality T-shirts which are both funny and on the topic of Spain as seen by tourists. Produces some custom series for regional specifics like San Fermin event.

Eat The Spanish are very passionate about their food and wine and Spanish cuisine. Spanish food can be described as quite light with a lot of vegetables and a huge variety of meat and fish. The Spanish cuisine does not use many spices; it relies only on the use of high quality ingredients to give a good taste.

Lunch and dinner times

Spaniards have a different eating timetable than most people are used to. The key thing to remember for a traveler is:

• lunchtime starts at 1:30pm/2pm, and finishes before 4pm
• dinner starts at 8:30pm or 9pm, with most clientèle coming after 9pm.
• between that, most restaurants and cafes are closed, and it takes extra effort to find a place to eat if you missed lunch time.

Normally, restaurants in big cities don't close until midnight during the week and 2-3am during the weekend.

Breakfast

Breakfast is eaten by most Spaniards. In cafes, you can expect varieties of tortilla de patatas (see the Spanish dishes section), sometimes tapas (either breakfast variety or same kind as served in the evenings with alcohol). Traditional spanish breakfast, though, is usually based on sweet things: hot chocolate with "churros" or "porras",...

Tapas

The entry level to Spanish food is found in bars as tapas, which are a bit like "starters" or "appetizers", but are instead considered side orders to accompany your drink. Some bars will offer a wide variety of different tapas; others specialize on a specific kind (like seafood-based). A Spanish custom is to have one tapa and one small drink at a bar, then go to the next bar and do the same. A group of two or more individuals may order two or more tapas or order raciones instead, which are a bit larger in order to share. Tourists are easily spotted when they load their plates full of tapas.

Fast food

Fast food has not yet established a strong grip on the Spaniards and you will find McDonalds and Burger King only in bigger towns in the usual places. The menu can be a surprise since it has been customized to appeal to the locals and beer, salads, yogurt primarily Danone, and wine are prominent. Pizza is increasingly popular and you will find some outlets in bigger towns but it can be their own homegrown franchise, TelePizza, as well as Pizza Hut.

Restaurants

Seafood: on a seacoast, fresh seafood is widely available and quite affordable. In the inner regions, frozen (and poor quality) seafood can be frequently encountered outside few highly reputated (and expensive) restaurants. In coastal areas seafood deserves some attention, especially on the north Atlantic coast. Meat products are usually of very good quality, because Spain has maintained quite a high percentage of free range animals. Soups: choice of soups beyond gazpacho is very limited in Spanish restaurants. Water is frequently served without a specific request, and is normally charged for--unless it's included in your menu del dia.

Tipping and VAT

No service charges are included in the bill. A little extra tip is common and you are free to increase that if you are very pleased. Obviously you don’t have to tip a lousy waiter. You would typically leave the small change after paying with a note. VAT is-not-included is a common trick for mid-range and splurge restaurants: always check in menu whether VAT (7%, IVA in Spanish) is included in menu prices.

Menú del día

Many restaurants offer a complete lunch meal for a fixed price – "menú del día" – and this often works out as a bargain. Water or wine are commonly included in the price.

Touristy places

Typical Spanish food can be found all over the country, however top tourist destinations such as Costa Brava and Costa del Sol have turned all existing traditions upside down. Meaning that drinks are generally more expensive (about double) and it is difficult to find proper Spanish food in the tourist centers. However you will get Schnitzel, original English breakfast, Pizza, Donair, and frozen fish. However, if you are prepared to look a little harder, then even in the busiest tourist towns, you can find some exceptional traditional Spanish restaurants. If you are on the coast then think fish and seafood and you wont be disappointed.

Non-Spanish cuisine

Italian gelaterias are the most frequent kind of non-Spanish cafes; English and Irish pubs follow. Japanese restaurants and sushi bars are rare, at least in touristy parts of cities.

Specialties to buy

• Cheese: Spain offers a wide variety of regional cheeses.

• Queso Manchego is the most famous one.
• Idealis... is another frequently cited, ~€20 per ball.

• Chorizo: Spain's most popular sausage is made from pork, ham, salt, garlic and pepper and is produced in multitude of varieties, in different sizes, shapes, short and long, spicy, in all different shades of red, soft, air dried and hard or smoked. Frequently contains emulgators and conservatives, so check ingredients if you feel sensitive.

• Jamón (air dried ham): Jamón Serrano (Serrano ham): A tinned food obtained from the salt meat of the back legs of the pig and air dried. This same product is given the name of trowel or paletilla when it is obtained from the front legs. Also it receives the names of jamón Iberico (Iberian) and jamón of bellota (acorn). They are specially famous jamones that takes place in Huelva (Spain), in Guijuelo (province Salamanca), in the Pedroches (province Cordova) and in Trevélez (province of Granada). Jamón Iberico is made from free range pigs.

Judging by Boqueria in Barcelona, Jamon Iberico starts at €80/kg, and Jamon Serrano is about €25/kg.

• Morcilla: Sausages made from pig blood flavoured with anise, it comes as a fresh, smoked or air dried variety.

Spanish dishes

Typical dishes are:

• Mariscos: Shellfish. Best shellfish in the world you can eat in the province of Pontevedra.

• Calamares en su tinta: Squid in its ink.

• Chipirones a la plancha: Grilled little squids.

• Caracoles: Snails in a hot sauce.

• Pescaíto frito: Delicious fried fish that can be found mainly in southern Spain

• Fabada asturiana: Bean stew from Asturias.

• Gambas al ajillo: Prawns with garlic and chili. Fantastic hot stuff.

• Gazpacho Andaluz: Cold vegetable soup. Best during the hot weather. It's like drinking a salad.

• Merluza a la Vizcaina: The Spanish are not very fond of sauces. One of the few exception is merluza a la Vasca. The dish contains hake (fish of the cod family) prepared with white asparagus and green peas.

• Aceitunas, Olivas: Olives, often served for nibbling.

• Lentejas: A dish made from lentils with chorizo sausage and/or Serrano ham.

• Potajes or pucheros: Garbanzo beans stew at its best

• Paella: Famous rice dish originally from Mediterranean area. There are different variations: seafood, chicken and rabbit, etc. While dishes called paella can be found in virtually every restaurant in Spain (and it will claim to use true authentic recipe and ingredients), its true variety is quite rare: it should contain Safran (which is expensive) and, originally, some seafood (which can't be trusted outside coast towns). Locals suggest to find true paella in large parties like a wedding in a village, but few restaurants still can compete with it.

• Pimientos rellenos: Peppers stuffed with minced meat or seafood. The peppers in Spain taste different than all other peppers in Europe.

• Potaje de espinacas y garbanzos: Chick pea stew with spinach. Typical of Seville.

• Tortilla de patatas: Spanish egg omelet with fried potato. Probably the most popular dish in Spain. You can easily assess how good a restaurant is by having a small piece of its potato tortillas. Frequently it is made also with onion, depending on the zone or the pleasure. The potatoes must be fried in oil (preferably of olive), and they are left soaking with the scrambled egg for more than 10 minutes, although better if it is average hour so that they are soaked and they acquire the suitable consistency.

• Patatas bravas: They are potatoes cut in form of dices or prism, of one to two centimeters of size approximately and that they are fried in oil and accompanied by a sharp sauce that spills on potatoes using hot spices. The name of this plate comes from its sharp flavor, indicating that it has fire or temperament, recalling the first operation of I goad in which a goad nails to him so that he is brave in the bullfight.

• Churros: A fried horn-shaped snack, sometimes referred as a Spanish doughnut. Typical for a Spanish breakfast or for tea time. Served with hot chocolate drink.

Drink

Tea and Coffee

Spanish people are very passionate about the quality, intensity and taste of their coffee and good freshly brewed coffee is available almost everywhere. The usual choices are solo, the milk-less espresso version; cortado, solo with a dash of milk; con leche, solo with milk added; and manchado, coffee with lots of milk (sort of like the French cafe au lait). Asking for caffee latte will likely result in less milk then you are used to--it's always OK to ask for adding extra milk. Starbucks [15] is the only national chain operating in Spain. Locals argue that it can't compete with small local cafes in quality of coffee and only visited by tourists. Can be found only in larger cities: Barcelona (18 outlets), Madrid (20 outlets), Sevilla (7 outlets) and Valencia (2 outlets)--as of Oct 2007. It is not present in smaller cities. If you eat for €20 per dinner, you will never be served a good tea; expect Pompadour or Lipton. It takes some effort to find a good tea if you spend most time of the day in touristy places.

Alcohol

The drinking age in Spain is 18. People under this age are forbidden to drink and buy alcoholic drinks, although enforcement in tourist and clubbing areas is lax.

Bars

Probably one of the best places to meet people in Spain is in bars. Everyone visits them and they are always busy and sometimes bursting with people. There is no age restriction imposed to enter these premises although children and teenagers often will not be served alcoholic drinks. Age restrictions for the consumption of alcohol are clearly posted at bars but are enforced only intermittently. It is not uncommon to see an entire family at a bar. Bars are mainly to have drink and a small tapa while socializing and decompressing from work or studies. Usually Spaniards can control their alcohol consumption better than their northern Europeans and drunk people are rarely seen at bars or on the streets. A drink, if ordered without an accompanying tapa, is normally served with a "minor" or inexpensive tapa as a courtesy. Size and prize of tapas changes a lot throughout Spain. For instance, it's almost impossible to get free tapas in big cities like Madrid or Barcelona while you can eat for free (just paying for the drinks), with huge tapas at cities like Granada or Badajoz. The tapa, and the related pincho, trace their existence in Spain to both acting as a cover ("Tapa") on top of a cup of wine to prevent flies from accessing it, and as a requirement of law when serving wine at an establishment during the middle ages.

Beer

The Spanish beer is not too bad at all and well worth a try. Most popular local brands include San Miguel, Cruzcampo, Mahou, Ambar, Estrella Galicia, Keller and many others, including local brands at most cities; import beers are also available. A great beer is 'Mezquita' (Cervezas Alhambra), try to find it! In Spain, beer is often served from a tap in 25 cl ("caña") or 33 cl ("tubo") tube glasses. Bigger servings are rare, but you can also ask for a "corto", "zurito" (round the Basque country) or simply "una cerveza" or "tanque" (south of the country) to get a half size beer, perfect to drink in one go and get quickly to the next bar while having tapas. If you're in Zaragoza (or Aragon, in general), the best beer available is the Pilsner-type Ambar (5.2% alc.) and the stronger Export (double malt, 7.0% alc.). Ambar 1900: Its production began in 1996. The system of fermentation to room temperature is used. Marlen is a beer of traditional manufacture using malted barley and hops. Locals in Aragon often add lemon juice to their beer.

Cava

Cava is Spanish sparkling wine and was invented after a long lasting dispute with the French about the right name for the sparkling wine. The Spanish called it for a long time champan, but the French argued that champagne can made only from grapes grown in the Champagne region in France. Nevertheless, Cava is a quite successful sparkling wine and 99% of the production comes from the area around Barcelona.

Cider

Can be found in the Basque Country, Galicia and Asturies.

Horchata

A milky non-alcoholic drink made of tigernuts and sugar. Alboraia is regarded as a best place where horchata is produced.

Sangria

Sangria is drink made of wine and fruits and usually is made from simple wines. You will find sangria mainly in touristy places prepared for tourists. Spanish prepare sangria for fiestas and hot summer, and not every day as seen in toristic regions like Mallorca. Sangria in restaurants aimed for foreigners are best avoided, but it is a very good drink to try if a Spaniard prepares it for a fiesta!

Sherry (Fino)

The wines around Jerez are very high in alcohol and they produce the famous sherry. If you would like to have one in a bar you have to order a fino. Manzanilla is bit salty, good as an appetizer. Amontillado and Oloroso are sweet, good after having a meal.

Wine

Spain is a country with great wine-making and drinking traditions: 22% of Europe's wine growing area is located in Spain, however the production is about half of what the French produce. Regions: The most famous wines come from Rioja region, less known but also important comes from Ribera del Duero. The latter are becoming more and more popular and are slightly more expensive than Rioja wines. White, rose and red wines are produced, but the red wines are certainly the most important ones. Grapes: The primary red grape used is Tempranillo, the primary white grape used is Albarino, and the privary Jerez grape used is Pedro Ximenez but others can be found. The grapes used are quite delicate and thus there is a reduction in yield. Specific names: Valdepenas is good value for money. Whites: Belondrade Y Lurton regarded as greatest white wine in Spain. Vina Sol is good as a mass product, with fruity taste. Grades: Spanish quality wines are produced using an aging process and they have been in a oak barrel for at least one year before they can be labeled Crianza and then spend another two years in a bottle before been sold. Reservas are aged for five years and Gran Reservas are aged for 10 years. Prices: Spain has seen a tremendous rise in wine prices over the last decade and Spanish wines are not as much of a bargain as they were a decade ago. However you will still find 5, 10 and 20 year old wines at affordable prices especially when compared with similar quality wines from Australia, Chile, France, and the US. In a bar: For red wine in a bar, ask "un tinto por favor", for white wine "un blanco por favor", for rose: "un rosado por favor". Wine-based drinks: Young people in Spain have developed their own way to have wine. When having botellones (big outdoor parties with drink and lots of people), most of them will be mixing some red wine with Coke and drink such mix straight from the Coke bottle. The name of this drink is calimocho or kalimotxo (in the Basque Country and Navarre) and is really very popular... But don't ask for it while in an upper class bar, or among adults, since they will most certainly not approve of the idea! Sleep

• All Euro Hotels www.alleurohotels.com

Different types of accommodation in cities in Spain There are three different names given to hotel-like accommodation in large cities in Spain, they are Hotel, Hostal and Pension. It is important not to confuse a hostel with a hostal; a hostel offers backpacker-type accommodation with shared rooms, whereas a hostal is very similar to a guest house and is generally cheaper than a hotel. There are many different kinds of tourist accommodations, ranging from hotels, pensions, rented villas, to campings or even monasteries. "7% VAT is not included" is a common trick for mid-range guesthouses and hotels: always check the small print when you choose your place to stay. VAT is IVA in Spanish.

Small villages

Besides the coasts, Spain is rich in tourists-friendly inland small villages, like Alquezar: with narrow medieval streets, charming silence and isolation, still good selection of affordable restaurants and accommodation.

Casa Rural, the B&Bs of Spain

For a more homely sort of accommodation consider Casa Rural. A Casa Rural is the equivalent to a Bed and Breakfast or a Gîtes. Not all houses are situated in the countryside, as the name implies. Some are situated in the smaller towns, and available in virtually every province. Casa Rurals, throughout Spain, vary in quality and price. In some regions, like Galicia, they are strictly controlled and inspected. Other regions are not so though in their regulations. Here is a [16] or [17] that owners have to pay to be on. There are reviews of the houses, in several languages. There is also others like [18] free to be on.

Paradores

A Parador ("inn") [19] is a state owned hotel in Spain (rating from 3 to 5 stars). These are a chain of hotels founded in 1928 by the Spanish King Alfonso XIII. The unique aspects of Paradores are their location and their history. Found mostly in historical buildings, such as convents, Moorish castles (like La Alhambra), or haciendas, Paradores are the exact opposite of the uncontrolled development found in coastal regions like the Costa del Sol. Hospitality has been harmoniously integrated with the restoration of castles, palaces and convents, rescuing from ruin and abandonment monuments representative of Spain's historical and cultural heritage. For example the Parador in Santiago de Compostella is located next to the Cathedral in a former royal hospital built in the year 1499. Rooms are decorated in an old-fashioned way, but nevertheless have modern facilities. Other notable Paradores are in Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, Santillana del Mar (Altamira cave) as well as more than 100 other destination all over Spain. Paradores will serve breakfast (about €10) and often have very good local cuisine typical for their region (about €25). Accommodation prices are a good value, when you consider that the hotels are often found in the heart of scenic areas, varying from €85 for a double room to €245 for a twin room (like in Granada). Two of the most beautiful paradors are in Léon and Santiago de Compostela. There are some promotions available:

• 60+ can enjoy a discount.
• youngsters under 30 can visit the paradors at a fixed rate of €35 per person.
• two nights half board have a discount of 20%.
• a dreamweek of 6 nights is cheaper.
• 5 nights at €42 per person.

The promotions do not always apply, especially in August they are not valid. It's not possible to have a discount at the parador of Granada, which had no vacancies, unless you book at least 6 months before your arrival.

Hostels

There are plenty of hostels in Spain, mostly in Madrid. Prices can vary from €15 to €25 per night. Stay safe

Police

There are four kinds of police:

• 'Policía Municipal' or 'Local' (metropolitan police,)In Barcelona: Guardia Urbana. Uniforms change from town to town, but they use to wear black or blue clothes with pale blue shirt and a blue cap (or white helmet) with a checkered white-and-blue strip. This kind of police keeps order and rules the traffic inside cities, and they are the best people in case you are lost and need some directions. Although you can't officially report theft to them, they will escort you to 'Policia Nacional' headquarters if required, and they will escort the suspects to be arrested also, if needed.

• 'Policía Nacional' wear dark blue clothes and blue cap (sometimes replaced by a baseball-like cap), unlike Policía Municipal, they do not have a checkered flag around their cap/helmet. Inside cities, all offenses/crimes should be reported to them, although the other police corps would help anyone who needs to report an offense.

• 'Guardia Civil' keeps the order outside cities, in the country, and regulates traffic in the roads between cities. You would probably see them guarding official buildings, or patrolling the roads. They wear plain green military-like clothes; some of them wear a strange black helmet ('tricornio') resembling a toreador cap, but most of them use green caps or white motorcycle helmets.

• Given that Spain has a high grade of political autonomy released to its regional governments, some of them also have regional law forces, such as Policía Foral in Navarra, the Ertzaintza in the Basque Country or the Mossos d'Esquadra in Catalonia.

All kinds of police also wear high-visibility clothing ("reflective" jackets) while directing traffic, or in the road.

Theft

Spain is a safe country, but you should take some basic precautions encouraged in all the world:

• Try not to show expensive stuff in depressed areas (most of these ones are not touristic places, though, and you probably shouldn't get through them).
• Try not to show the money you have in your wallet or purse.
• Always watch your bag or purse in touristic places, buses, trains and meetings. A voice message reminding that is played in most of the bus/train stations and airports.
• Do not carry large amounts of money with you, unless needed. Use your credit card (Spain is the first country in number of cash points and most shops/restaurants accepts it). Of course, use it with caution.
• Beware of pickpockets when visiting areas with large numbers of people, like crowded buses or the Puerta del Sol(in Madrid). If you report a thief, people are generally helpful.
• In Madrid and also in Barcelona, criminals target particularly people from the far east (especially Japan), thinking they carry money and are easy prey.
• Don't hesitate to report crimes to local police.
• In general, you must bear in mind that those areas with a larger number of foreign visitors, like some crowded vacation resorts in the East Coast, are much more likely to attract thieves than places which are not so popular among tourists.
• Avoid gypsy women offering rosemary, refuse it always; they will read your future, ask for some money, and your pocket will probably be picked. Some gypsy women also will approach you on the street repeating "Buena suerte" ("good luck") as a distraction for another gypsy woman to try to pickpocket you. Avoid them at all costs.
• A great tourist attraction is the Flea Market in Madrid on the weekends. However, as it is nearly standing room only - it is also an attraction for pickpockets. They operate in groups... be extremely cautious in these tight market type environments as it is very common to be targeted... especially if you stand out as a tourist or someone with money. Try to blend in and not stand out and you will likely not be at as much risk.

Scams

Some people could try to take advantage of your ignorance of local customs.

• In Spanish cities, all taxis should have a visible fare table. You shouldn't agree a fixed price to go from an airport to a city: in most cases, the taxi driver will be earning more money than without a pre-agreed tariff.

• In many places of Madrid, especially near Atocha station, and also in the Ramblas of Barcelona, there are people ('trileros') who play the "shell game". They will "fish" you if you play, and they will most likely pick your pocket if you stop to see other people play. Many of them used to be foreign immigrants.

Other things you should know

• Spanish cities can be LOUD at night, especially on weekends.
• All stores, hotels and restaurants should have an official complaint form, in case you need it.
• The emergency telephone number (police, firefighters, ambulances) is 112. You may call it from any phone at no cost, in case you need to.

Narcotics

In Spain the illegal drugs are prohibited, but possession and consumption at private places is not prosecuted. Taking drugs in public and possession, for personal use, will be fined from 300€ to 3000€ depending of the drug and the quantity that you carry on, you will not get arrested unless you have large quantities for sell it at the street. Stay healthy

• Pharmaceuticals are not sold at supermarkets, they're sold at 'farmacias' (pharmacies), identified with a green cross or a Hygeia's cup. Nearly every city and town has at least one 24 hour pharmacy; for those where it closes for night, there should be a poster on a door with an address of the nearest pharmacy, possibly in one of the nearest towns--all these is required by law.

• People from European Union and a few more European countries can freely use public health system, if they have the appropriate intereuropean sanitary card. That card does not work in private hospitals. Agreements are established to treat people from a few American countries; see the Tourspain link below for more info.

• However, do not hesitate to go to any healthcare facility should you be injured or seriously ill, as it would be illegal for them not to treat you, even if you are uninsured.

• Though most foreigners tend to think Spain is a warm place, it can be terribly cold in winter, especially in the Central Region and in the North, and in some places it is also rainy in summer. Remember to travel with adequate clothes.

• In summer, avoid direct exposure to sunlight for long periods of time to prevent sunburn and heatstroke. Drink water, walk on the shady side of street and keep a container of sun cream (suntan lotion) handy.

• Most cities have a good water supply, especially Madrid, but you may prefer bottled water to the alkaline taste of water in the east and south.

Respect

• Spaniards in general are very patriotic about both their country and/or the region in which they live. Avoid arguments about whether people from Catalonia or the Basque Country are Spaniards or not.

• It is customary to kiss friends, family, and acquaintances on both cheeks upon seeing each other and saying goodbye. Male-to-male kisses of this sort are limited to family members --a firm handshake is expected instead. The same goes to all Latin American countries.

• Spaniards of all regions are keen to maintain physical contact while talking, such as putting a hand on your shoulder, patting your back, etc. These should be taken as signs of friendship.

• During lunch or dinner, Spaniards do not begin eating until everyone is seated and ready to eat. Likewise, they do not leave the table until everyone is finished eating. Table manners are otherwise standard and informal.

• When Spaniards receive a gift or are offered a drink or a meal, they usually refuse for a bit, so as not to seem greedy. This sometimes sparks arguments among especially reluctant people, but it is seen as polite. Remember to offer more than once (on the third try it must be fairly clear if they will accept it or not). On the other hand, if you are interested in the offer, politely smile and decline it, saying that you don't want to be a nuisance, etc. but relent and accept when they insist.

• When in a car, the elderly and pregnant always ride in the passenger's seat, unless they request not to.

• Appearing drunk in public is generally frowned upon.

• In Spanish beaches it is okay for women to sunbathe topless. This practice is particularly common in touristic areas. Full nudity is only allowed in "clothing-optional" or nudist beaches.

Cope Some international brands you may be used to are not available in Spain: Blend-a-Med toothpaste, Dirol and Stimorol chewing gum. Bring in enough for your whole trip if you can't live without it.